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Fuse #13 under driver fuse box continues to break.

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Old May 18, 2023 | 10:40 PM
  #1  
Black.Rhino's Avatar
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Three Wheeling
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From: Los Angeles
Default Fuse #13 under driver fuse box continues to break.

I've read other posts regarding rear windows not working but none of the threads is entirely specific to my issue.

'01 Disco, rear windows worked up until a few months ago. After reading other threads I checked FL #13 in the cabin fuse box, driver side and found the link broken. Replaced it with a new 30amp and operated the rear windows. The passenger side went down. The driver rear did not. Checked the fuse and the link was broke. I needed to get the rear window back up so put another fuse in and raised the window. I pulled the fuse and it was intact.

Could it be a bad center console rear driver switch? Or a relay issue. Your help is very appreciated. If you use an acronym please assume I don't understand what it means.
 
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Old May 19, 2023 | 07:15 AM
  #2  
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You can swap switches to see if the problem moves with the switch but it’s more likely to be a short in the motor or a lack of lubrication in the regulator (the bars behind the door panel that make the glass actually move). Either case will draw more current that the fuse is allowing and the result is the fuse blowing due to excess power draw. Best bet is to get a phllips screwdriver and pull the door panel off to see what’s going on. There are a lot of plastic pins you will have to yank out too, best to use a plastic trim panel tool to prevent breaking them. Have someone work the switch and observe why it’s so difficult for the window to move. Often times the little plastic guide wheels disintegrate and the bars no longer move freely. I’ve seen them bent from being jammed up as the motor tries to force an uncooperative mechanism up or down. This will blow a fuse.
 
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Old May 19, 2023 | 03:27 PM
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Black.Rhino's Avatar
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Three Wheeling
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Originally Posted by ahab
You can swap switches to see if the problem moves with the switch but it’s more likely to be a short in the motor or a lack of lubrication in the regulator (the bars behind the door panel that make the glass actually move). Either case will draw more current that the fuse is allowing and the result is the fuse blowing due to excess power draw. Best bet is to get a phllips screwdriver and pull the door panel off to see what’s going on. There are a lot of plastic pins you will have to yank out too, best to use a plastic trim panel tool to prevent breaking them. Have someone work the switch and observe why it’s so difficult for the window to move. Often times the little plastic guide wheels disintegrate and the bars no longer move freely. I’ve seen them bent from being jammed up as the motor tries to force an uncooperative mechanism up or down. This will blow a fuse.
Copy that. I will pull the door panel and inspect. I appreciate the guidance.
 
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