Similar issue to https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...h-issue-49903/ but I wanted to include additional info on my vehicle and things I've done, just in case I should be looking at something else besides the CPS:

My '04 DII w/ 116K just cranks and cranks when warm (short stop at the local store, for example) but starts right up when cold (sitting overnight or an hour or more.) I'm looking to replace the CPS anyway, because I don't know the history on it (I bought it 2 years ago w/ 87K or so on it.)

A couple of weeks ago, I replaced the Fuel Purge Valve. Went through the cycle and a few days ago, showed as "READY" per my OBDII scanner. Almost two years ago, I installed new 8mm Magnecor wires w/ Bosch Platinum +4's. For what it's worth, I also replaced both upstream O2 sensors and air filter. So, that was only about 20K miles ago.

I cleaned the positive battery post, but now - after reconnecting it - a few systems are "NOT READY" (I would think the ECM has a backup/memory in it in case of power loss. I guess not.) May or may not be related...

Here are the ones that are "NOT READY:"

• Htd 02 Sensor (Oxygen Sensor, on the hand, shows as READY - was NOT READY just yesterday)
• Secondary Air System
• Evap System (Man, and I just went through this cycle - took about two weeks!)
• Catalyst

No Codes, by the way.

Any ideas or am I on the right track w/ the CPS?
If so, I can pick on up at Autozone today *or* should I wait and just order it from Atlantic British?

-Anthony

P.S. Missed this forum! I really should stick around more - not just when there are issues.

 

Could be the cranks sensor, could be a failing fuel pump, this is the time of the year when the pumps get too hot and can't pump the proper pressure, especially if the tank is around a 1/4 full.

 

You can do a free test for crank sensor - when it acts up check for spark. No spark is often linked to bad CKP. You an also pour cold water on it an see if it resets. About $70 sensor.

 

Just replaced the CPS. Damn whoever designed the location of that harness/plug! 90% of the time was taken up trying to disconnect and reconnect it.

Started up. Drove her around till warm... parked... went into the store... came out and started right up warm. Awesome! Thanks!

Now, it seems like it's running TONS smoother now. Am I imagining this?

-Anthony

 

I say no, because the CPS is what controls spark, if it is not working at 100% spark will not be 100%.
It is my opinion that the CPS on the DII should be replaced at every tune up because it is a common fail item and it controls the spark.
That is my opinion.

 

When you went in the store, you came out with a 12 pack, right? Or something stronger to toast your good fortune.

 

Ha! Maybe that's because I'm the kind of person who swears the car is faster after a car wash.

In any case, went for a longer drive and started up again warm. So, i believe we're good. On to an oil change (overdue.)

Thanks again. Celebration indeed.

 

The CKP makes a signal pulse every 6 degrees of rotation (well, there is a space left for sync), so a sensor with metal filings on it would make pulses more erratic, as can one that is bent, etc. It is a coil of wire around a metal rod. So if it were failing, the pulses would be erratic, perhaps not as "crisp", so the ECU would do better with a new clean one. On the D1 with the reluctor tabs on a disk, a bent tab can throw things off as well. Pix of senor (thanks Eric), and a view of the reluctor disk it senses, and some pages on the sensor from Bosch.

 

Thanks for those pics and info. That's quite interesting.

To make replacement easier, I'm going to look into rewiring the location of the connector. My only concern is adding to much length - I'm wondering if that would increase the ohms (resistance) and therefore decrease the strength of the signal? I would do it buying a couple of those sensor and creating a coupler/extension of sorts. Just an idea, because man that connector is not in a place where anyone with decent sized forearms can reach it.

-Anthony