I will be replacing oil pan gasket also and the lug nuts are a 24mm too right ? If so I have a socket then lol

 

Lugnuts are 27mm, balancer 24mm.

 

Well then I need to buy one hahahaha

 

Anything special about doing the timing chain ?

 

Rotate the engine several times after installing the chain, then make sure the timing marks still line up.

 

Should I just replace chain and or the sprockets too?
I figure I am in that area and should just do things as a precaution

 

The sprockets are probably fine.
Worst case, you can get new ones, but I wouldn't order them ahead of time.
Just the chain will do in most cases.

 

Ok great thanks as I want to order things tomorrow

 

A couple things to think about regarding torquing the crank nut. Torque values are best achieved by a smooth rotating force. Even with wheel nuts, you want to have the wrench click mid-stroke, while the two surfaces are "grinding" together. This ensures you've crept up on, and achieved, the correct spec. Whenever I feel a torque wrench click as soon as the nut (or bolt) starts spinning I back it off and start over.

While 200 ft/lbs isn't a tremendous amount, securing the crank at the torque converter mount points, or removing the starter and using a flywheel lock, isn't ideal. By securing the back end, you're transmitting all the force through the crank as you rotate around and hit 200 ft/lbs at the snout. Better to hold the crank at the front end where you're trying to achieve the torque value. Again, 200 ft/lbs isn't superman territory but I've seen guys snap the front off the crank at 300+ in older BMWs by using a flywheel lock.

 

Oil pan will be off so I can block it up that way
will need Vaseline
oil and filter
some rtv
thread locker blue
cuss jar
torque wrench