I have access to a car lift at work,.....I did my front brake rotors last weekend,....and found that the frame rails were not the lowest points,.....so ended up lifting from under the radius arms where they mount to the body. I was only lifting until the front tires were off the ground, so this seemed OK,....but I would prefer something more secure if lifting the truck to a point where I can walk under it.

Looking for suggestions.

Brian in Boerne, TX.

 

Here is what LR has in WM.
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Yean, I looked at that before posting. Those lifting points don't work on a lift,....they work fine with a floor jack,....but the arms on a lift aren't long enough to reach the axles.

Brian

 

Bottle jack points may be an option and likely what some use. Not too many other easy options.
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The lift should have extensions you can ad under the lifting pads that will allow contact with the frame before the arms hit anything else.

other spot that works are the junctions just inside the outer body edge where the frame and body are bolted on to each other, after front wheel and before the rear wheel.

 

What abran said is the best way..

In addition, if the shop doesnt have the extensions, then a couple blocks of 4x4 timber should suffice to get you the additional height you need.

 

Yeah, we have some 4x4s. just thought there might be a better way.

 

I lift mine using the frame. The d1, Classics and d2 all lift at more or less the same spot using the frame rails directly behind and in front of the front and rear wheels.

 

Lift it where the rave says to put the bottle jack in.

Or you can put the big lift onto the frame and take your chances.

I would not want a Discovery 2 to tumble off the lift. So be careful.

 

I would not want to see any kind of lift accident with any vehicle as the potential for injury is high.

that said, I lift rovers pretty much daily. On my 10K Mohawk 2 post lift, you lift on the frame. You need to pay attention to the weight rating of the lift and also understand how to level the arms if it's hydraulic, as the off side will usually lift slower.

Other advice, never get under the car if you've not lowered the lift onto its locks and if you're working for a prolonged period of time, getting axle stands underneath is a good idea.

i like the two post for some things, like wheel changes and messing with the suspension, but it's way more intensive than using a 4 post drive on type lift.

If you're trained on the lift already, there's nothing particularly different about lifting a Rover vs any other car.