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Head bolt question

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  #11  
Old 01-17-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
It's actually the opposite. TTY bolts are a new thing that older vehicles don't have. Manufacturers found that they hold better over longer periods, and it's easier to get a consistent torque across the head because you actually pass the bolts yield point , meaning the bolt reaches maximum torque before final rotation, and all the bolts yield at the same point.
so do you think that if you used a torque wrench to undo the bolts they would all be at the same torque spec?
 
  #12  
Old 01-18-2019, 12:20 PM
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They should be close, yeah.
 
  #13  
Old 01-18-2019, 01:16 PM
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If that’s the case why not just specify a 3 part torque sequence based on foot pounds/NM?
 
  #14  
Old 01-18-2019, 01:18 PM
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Also, not trying to be argumentative, I’m really asking
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 10:26 PM
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I understand, I didn't think you were. I think that it still allows it to get that much closer, and maintain that similarity despite different conditions sch as temperature, humidity, a little oil in the threads of one bolt, a little coolant or debris in another, etc. It makes the exact torque less specific taking those things more out of consideration.

Also, I believe that over time with repeated hot/cold cycles as the bolts may begin to move a little, they maintain a similar torque because they have a springy-ness to them.
 
  #16  
Old 01-18-2019, 10:49 PM
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The TTY bolts also help out rebuilding engines in the bush. Very helpful when proper tools are hard to come by. 15ft lbs isn't too hard to achieve with a junk torque wrench from Auto zone. Then a sharpie and big wrench does the rest. I find it very user friendly vs my $600 snap on wrench that I have to send off to get re calibrated a lot.

​​Plus out of curiosity I've "hand tightened" some head bolts then did the 90 degree turns with good success. I wouldn't recommend it, but it works.

​​​​​​​Land Rover 2004 and older have a lot in common with tractors. I love it.
 
  #17  
Old 01-19-2019, 06:08 PM
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Couple things.
I think it helps save the threads in the block.

I also overcranked a head bolt past the 90, went 180, and the torque on it was the similar as the other ones.
 
  #18  
Old 01-20-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Couple things.
I think it helps save the threads in the block.

I also overcranked a head bolt past the 90, went 180, and the torque on it was the similar as the other ones.
pretty much what I was thininkg. If not why not just specify a torque rating.
 
  #19  
Old 01-20-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by abran


pretty much what I was thininkg. If not why not just specify a torque rating.
well I was going to say...as I over tightened that bolt it never got any tighter. I think the bolt was stretching as I turned it. Maybe it has something to do with how far the bolt goes in...idk.
 
  #20  
Old 01-23-2019, 01:08 PM
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So I've been taking my time with this project to ensure that everything was done correctly. Today everything was going good. I changed the oil and started to fill the engine with fresh coolant before I started the up, I go to slide my jack under the front end to raise it up and that's when I saw a puddle of fresh coolant pooling up underneath. It seems as the coolant is running down the right side of the transmission. Any ideas on what the culprit may be? I know that every bolt is torqued to spec and the head bolts were done in the 15 ftlbs and 90° + 90° turns. Feeling pretty crushed and ready to beat the snot out of it with a baseball bat. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated
 


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