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Head bolt question

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  #21  
Old 01-23-2019, 01:18 PM
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Check the heater core hoses?

 
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Old 01-23-2019, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Saturnine
Check the heater core hoses?

I actually found the leak, it's the coolant pipe with the single bolt at the the manifold. I went with a less expensive gasket kit and the 2 o rings for the heater pipes at the manifold and they didn't fit. So I did the big no-no and reused the old orings. Does anyone know what these 2 o rings are called or know their dimensions so I can get the right ones?
 
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Old 01-23-2019, 03:02 PM
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I found a o-ring set from all makes 4×4*
Such a relief that I don't have to dismantle the whole engine!
 
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:39 PM
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Ace hardware should have an appropriate size o-ring
 
  #25  
Old 01-24-2019, 06:03 AM
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For the record, the Land Rover part number is ERR 6434.
 
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  #26  
Old 01-25-2019, 04:35 PM
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" ARB head studs. 60 lbs. no angle, no stretch, no guess work. DONE! " Yes, indeed, and most importantly: If you inspect carefully, blocks on these engines, that have cracked to some degree, you will see that the majority of them get cracked right at the base of one or more head bolts. With that it is prudent to ask why, at that particular point would the block crack?---the aluminum block gets one or more hairline cracks on the inner surface of the steel cylinder liner, allowing coolant under pressure to moved upward along the liner, into the cylinder, and/or downward into the oil pan. Because the OEM head bolts tend to exert so much upward pulling stress along the head bolt threads, especially at their base, and because the aluminum block is seriously thin walled at that very point where these bolts thread in, it is prudent to use ARB studs, thick ARB washers, and nuts, which don't exert such extreme stress as do OEM stretch bolts, partially due to the fact that no angle, threat of over torquing, is done, and due to fact the ARB studs exert more even stress.
 
  #27  
Old 01-26-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mln01
For the record, the Land Rover part number is ERR 6434.

thanks for the part #.
I have to correct my previous post about finding the set of o rings on all makes 4×4. I found the set at lucky 8,gotta give credit where it's due! And thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this post!
 
  #28  
Old 01-27-2019, 10:46 AM
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I got her back together yesterday after putting the new water pipe o rings on, primed the engine oil by turning the key for about 12 to 15 seconds ×3, I plugged the fuel fuse and relay back in and primed the fuel system by turning key to accessory and back off ×4, and she started right up on the second try. She ran for about a half hour sitting while I looked for any leaks, got in and drove. I noticed the heat wasn't warm coming from the vents until I started to actually drive. She warmed up eventually and I drove about a mile and a half to the store and back, sitting in my driveway with it still running while I readjusted my stereo settings I noticed the heat ran cold again, so I assumed that there was air in the heater core. Later I went out for a smoke and saw a puddle of coolant, so I start to investigate and couldn't really see much on account it was dark out. This morning I go and have a look, and it appears that I didn't tighten the clamp on the top of t stat tight enough. So after tightening the clamp up,I let the truck run for about 15 minutes and decided to drive around the block. When I turn the heat on it was cold and after driving it a half mile it wanted to over heat, so I let it cool down and* I limped it home after having to stop one more time to cool. I put my alltech scanner on it and it was at 253°.

Should I be looking at the thermostat as the culprit? I have no visible leaks now that the clamp has been tightened. If anyone has some suggestions I'm all ears!
 
  #29  
Old 01-27-2019, 01:55 PM
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So I raised the front end and burped the coolant system, started it up with the bleeder screw out so I could see coolant moving, replaced screw and let it sit at idle for 15 minutes and then drove through town,up and down hills that I wouldn't even think about bicycling up, for another 15 minutes. I had my autel scan tool hooked up and monitoring the coolant temperature, the temp never rose above 208° and at idle it fluctuated between 199° and 201°. Unless I revved the engine and then the temp rose to 210° and the fans kicked on,and then the temps never went above 212°. I have the truck parked facing up a hill in my yard and in the morning I will crack the system open and top off coolant. Seems like I will be driving around with my autel hooked up for a week or 2 until I can pick up a ultragauge lol.

thanks again for everyone's support,advice,and knowledge! I will be back if something disastrous happens, it is a land rover!
 
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