Heads off see pics...
#31
12-14-2011, 05:29 PM
Mudding
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Novato, CA
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Agreed, that sucks. 10K on any diesel engine is crazy though, and 15K from the factory is bonkers. Maybe it is not a wonder why they recommend it though, when costly repairs are money in their pocket! Even Audi recommended like 7K changes on my twin turbo. Granted, they picked up the tab for oil change for the first few years, so saved them money...and picked them up money in the end! But, I did my changes in between and supplied my own oil too!
I had a TDI VW Jetta as my extra/beater car in college and a little after. Put well over 200K on that with 4k changes. That oil would come out black as night at 4k, and sent some to the labs and they agreed with my changed intervals.
I had a TDI VW Jetta as my extra/beater car in college and a little after. Put well over 200K on that with 4k changes. That oil would come out black as night at 4k, and sent some to the labs and they agreed with my changed intervals.
#32
12-17-2011, 10:28 AM
Heads and gaskets back on, truck runs poorly at idle... I did not have heads machined, had them checked and they were at at 3 and 3.5 thousands. Idle is at 650 a little low, I have what I think is a faint knocking noise on both sides, truck still has whiteish/grey smoke coming out of tail pipe. I had to replace the drivers side upstream O2 sensor. I bought a Actron OBDII reader and it keeps telling me Mod 18 is not working, any clue what that is? Temp is between 196 and 230. 230 was with the truck parked and running with the AC on. I have posted pictures of all the screens on the OBD reader...pictures were taken in park at idle.
Last edited by aarongregor; 12-17-2011 at 11:18 AM.
#33
12-17-2011, 11:33 AM
mod 18 is oxs bank 2 sensor 1 (r/s upstream) fault.
see this chart
OBD-II PIDs - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
When you replace the ox sensors upstream. you should clean the oil residue
out of the connectors on the harness side. the best way to do this is to mark and emove the terminals from the socket. Clean degrease the socket and rinse with water then dry.
Then clean the terminals with rubbing alcohol and nothing else . Do Not use brake clean or carb cleaner you'll ruin the new sensor. reinstall wires in the connector
The terminals come out easily. simply remove the white anti back out piece then with a tiny screwdriver push the terminal toward the side of the connector with the lock tab on it.
see this chart
OBD-II PIDs - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
When you replace the ox sensors upstream. you should clean the oil residue
out of the connectors on the harness side. the best way to do this is to mark and emove the terminals from the socket. Clean degrease the socket and rinse with water then dry.
Then clean the terminals with rubbing alcohol and nothing else . Do Not use brake clean or carb cleaner you'll ruin the new sensor. reinstall wires in the connector
The terminals come out easily. simply remove the white anti back out piece then with a tiny screwdriver push the terminal toward the side of the connector with the lock tab on it.
Last edited by threalassmikeg; 12-17-2011 at 11:43 AM.
#34
12-17-2011, 11:51 AM
#35
12-17-2011, 03:07 PM
#36
12-17-2011, 06:42 PM
Agreed, that sucks. 10K on any diesel engine is crazy though, and 15K from the factory is bonkers. Maybe it is not a wonder why they recommend it though, when costly repairs are money in their pocket! Even Audi recommended like 7K changes on my twin turbo. Granted, they picked up the tab for oil change for the first few years, so saved them money...and picked them up money in the end! But, I did my changes in between and supplied my own oil too!
I had a TDI VW Jetta as my extra/beater car in college and a little after. Put well over 200K on that with 4k changes. That oil would come out black as night at 4k, and sent some to the labs and they agreed with my changed intervals.
I had a TDI VW Jetta as my extra/beater car in college and a little after. Put well over 200K on that with 4k changes. That oil would come out black as night at 4k, and sent some to the labs and they agreed with my changed intervals.
Now you say that $12k for a new engine really cuts into your profits and you are correct.
However wouldnt a normal person who is changing the oil a full 5,000 miles sooner than the manufacture recommends think they were doing nothing wrong and actually helping the life of the engine?
#37
12-17-2011, 06:44 PM
Hmmm... That really is too bad and a hefty price tag too. That's cool there is a source to find rebuilt engines quickly. Sounds like a manufacturing/engineering defect of some kind. As we all know, many common problems here on the LR's due to various factors and oil rarely being one of them. Hopefully a heavy duty mineral engine oil will help with the longevity of that engine but not likely from the sound of it.
And there are others yet with more miles and no problems.
I have no idea what motor oil any of them were using or how often it was getting changed.
#38
12-17-2011, 08:45 PM
Super Moderator
Well, my D2 uses a whole different engine management computer - but...
My RPM about the same at idle.
My advance way different. Seems like they would be a lot closer.
My MAF reading way, way different. Maybe the air is thicker in Mississippi (lol).
Perhaps some one with a D2 might comment on what their's is running.
My baby scanner is also an Actron.
My RPM about the same at idle.
My advance way different. Seems like they would be a lot closer.
My MAF reading way, way different. Maybe the air is thicker in Mississippi (lol).
Perhaps some one with a D2 might comment on what their's is running.
My baby scanner is also an Actron.
#39
12-17-2011, 09:25 PM
Super Moderator
With respect to the temp, 230 would be warm, IMHO. Was it doing this before HG problems came up? One thing that may have happened with all the work being done is some trash may have gotten into the thermostat. The top axial opening has four metering holes that pass coolant to warm up the stat and make it operate. If clogged, slow or partial operation could result. See pix from another member.
#40
12-18-2011, 01:31 PM
Savannah I replace the thermostat and flushed the radiator. I just did the option B on the ABS module rebuild and all the amigos are still on and still throwing code 1590. I just read all codes again and am getting codes 0300 multiple misfire detected as well as code 0307 misfire on 7. When it cools down I will pull plug 7 and see whats going on. Truck is still idling very rough. I still have smoke from the exhaust pipe periodically as well. Also was throwing mod $18 malfunction but now is saying $12.
Last edited by aarongregor; 12-18-2011 at 01:39 PM.