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Heated Windscreen and Wet Blower Motor

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  #1  
Old 01-10-2016, 01:09 AM
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Default Heated Windscreen and Wet Blower Motor

So I finally got the plenum cover off so I could tackle the water in the blower motor issue. Took it off without removing the A frame finishers (forgot my plastic pry bar). Not sure how much I'll regret that, but done is done.
Found out why my passenger side heated screen doesn't work (picture), once of the cables snapped right off at the glass.

Anyone found a solution to this? I tried to solder it on to what's left behind the glass but couldn't get it to take. I suspect the glass is a heat sink, my hands are not stable enough and there just might not be enough metal there.
Kind of hoping I can clip it together and hope it holds.
Probably a lost cause.

And then there's the leak.
When I opened it I found a strip had fallen off the bottom edge of one of the rubber seals and was dangling right into the air intake. I'm kind of hoping water was just dripping along it.
That said I can't really see any sign of a water path going down into it.
I think I'll go around the intake box with silicone and silicone up a crack I found in the center bottom of the plenum cover. If the water has been going between the rubber inlet "boot" and the body I think silicone should take care of it.
Not sure what else I can do to keep water out.
Any suggestions? I've heard of sheet metal barriers of some sort, but can't really picture anything that would be useful.
One of the bolts that attach that rubber intake isn't really properly done up (and I can't really get at it to tighten it up), it's the first piece of poor workmanship I've seen on the truck. Perhaps thats keeping it from sealing properly?

Just thought I'd share.
Thanks.
 
Attached Thumbnails Heated Windscreen and Wet Blower Motor-img_0136.jpg   Heated Windscreen and Wet Blower Motor-img_0139-anotated.jpg  
  #2  
Old 01-10-2016, 02:00 AM
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I tried to solder it on
To have a better chance of soldering that back together cut the end off the wire. It looks similar to a male spade terminal and crimping a new one on should give solder something to flow onto. Flux paste can help too if there's enough on the windshield side for soldering to. Not much room and rather poor angle for trying to fix. Good luck.

......
 
  #3  
Old 01-11-2016, 06:53 AM
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looks like you may be lucky and just have to replace the spade terminal
 
  #4  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:30 AM
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There was maybe a square mm of metal left exposed. I tried everything I could but just ended up trying a metal clip. Sparked a few times so there was a chance, but today driving around in snow it wasn't working.
Oh well nothing for it now. And at least it's the passenger side.

No idea if I've solved the leak, but I think so.
I did all that silicone and built a little hat over the air intake out of that good aluminium duct tape, still kicking myself for not adding a few more layers for stiffness. Wish I'd taken a photo too.
And then did a "**** it" after it was assembled, might regret it someday: I just ran a bead of silicone behind the whole rubber gasket (where it meets the glass). No water is getting there so long as that holds.
Sure hope I never have to take it off again, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
The center bolt had snapped all the plastic off at some point so that wasn't doing anything so I whittled down a shim and it wedged in nicely behind the bolt.
So yes, I've whittled a land rover part. Nothing strange about that.
 
  #5  
Old 01-12-2016, 12:33 AM
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There was maybe a square mm of metal left exposed. I tried everything I could but just ended up trying a metal clip. Sparked a few times so there was a chance, but today driving around in snow it wasn't working.
Oh well nothing for it now. And at least it's the passenger side.

No idea if I've solved the leak, but I think so.
I did all that silicone and built a little hat over the air intake out of that good aluminium duct tape that I was pretty pleased with, still kicking myself for not adding a few more layers for stiffness, but I'm sure it's fine. Wish I'd taken a photo too.
And then did a "**** it" after it was assembled, might regret it someday: I just ran a bead of silicone behind the whole rubber gasket (where it meets the glass). No water is getting there so long as that holds.
Sure hope I never have to take it off again, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
The center bolt had snapped all the plastic off at some point so that wasn't doing anything so I whittled down a shim and it wedged in nicely behind the bolt.
So yes, I've whittled a land rover part. Nothing strange about that.
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-2016, 06:02 AM
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If all else fails you could try this
MG Chemicals 8331 Two-Part Silver Conductive Epoxy Adhesive, 14 g (0.49 oz) in Two Syringes: Electronics Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific MG Chemicals 8331 Two-Part Silver Conductive Epoxy Adhesive, 14 g (0.49 oz) in Two Syringes: Electronics Adhesive: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
or other similar product.

As for the loose screw in the heater intake duct, I had a similar, but worse situation with my old D2 and it was caused by the rivnuts in the duct's flange coming loose. You're proposing slapping on some silicone and that may work for a time, but just be ware that non of the others let go as well. If you end up having to fit a new duct it can only be done by removing the complete fan inside.
 

Last edited by Alphamale; 01-12-2016 at 06:10 AM.
  #7  
Old 01-13-2016, 09:11 PM
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Oh that does sound excellent. Wish I'd had some.
 
  #8  
Old 01-14-2016, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Fallstaff
Oh that does sound excellent. Wish I'd had some.
Believe those types of adhesives have have a very low current flow ability and wouldn't have helped unless trying to thin your wallet.

......
 
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