heater fan problems
#11
06-06-2010, 12:12 PM
Thank you!!
This thread saved my vacation to Florida with my family. Thankyou!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I fixed it for $7.20.
This is the full threads that helped me find my problem and solve it.
Good Luck!
Like some on this forum, I had an intermittent working blower that finally died. One of the fixes (for some) from past threads was to install a new fuse box. Somehow the connection through the fuseblock to fuses 6 & 7 fails. Fuse 6 (25 amp) is rear A\C blower, if equipped, and fuse 7 (30 amp) is the front A\C blower. Both of these were dead on mine as well.
I looked at the engine bay fuseblock, also. Fuselink 4 was good, however, the connector (on same fuseblock) it sends power to was dead at the Brown\w Pink wire. This wire goes to fuses 6 & 7 in the passenger fuseblock.
I ended up running a bypass wire to each fuse directly from fuselink 4 (cold side, next to side of fuseblock), with an individual blade fuse holder on each wire. I put a spade connector on the ends and tried plugging in to the cold side of slots 6 & 7. It still didn't work. This fuseblock was bad, also.
I pulled the fuseblock and attached directly to the wires out (cold side) on the back. For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor, of which I attached my 25 amp bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector. The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. Pull it out the same way. I connected it to the 30 amp bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.
Success! I now have cold air blowing, front and back. Less than $20 for wire, individual fuseblocks, and connectors.
Attached Thumbnails
Attached Files
link4.pdf (48.3 KB, 23 views)
It is usually a faulty interior fuse block, specifically at the blower fuse. Between the wire harness connector on the back and the fuse on the front, there is a break in the power supply through the block. You can replace the fuse block, or bypass the block altogether, like I did, and run a independent fused wire to the blower.
The resistor pack can go bad, however, if the max speed fan setting doesn't work, then it is not the resistor pack. Max fan speed bypasses the resistor pack. There is a different rated resistor for each slower fan speed.
Note: Both of my fuseblocks (interior and under the hood) were dead for the blower circuit, and I bypassed both. See the attached images in the linked thread. __________________
The drawing is of the engine bay
fuseblock near the battery.
As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.
Good Luck!
Like some on this forum, I had an intermittent working blower that finally died. One of the fixes (for some) from past threads was to install a new fuse box. Somehow the connection through the fuseblock to fuses 6 & 7 fails. Fuse 6 (25 amp) is rear A\C blower, if equipped, and fuse 7 (30 amp) is the front A\C blower. Both of these were dead on mine as well.
I looked at the engine bay fuseblock, also. Fuselink 4 was good, however, the connector (on same fuseblock) it sends power to was dead at the Brown\w Pink wire. This wire goes to fuses 6 & 7 in the passenger fuseblock.
I ended up running a bypass wire to each fuse directly from fuselink 4 (cold side, next to side of fuseblock), with an individual blade fuse holder on each wire. I put a spade connector on the ends and tried plugging in to the cold side of slots 6 & 7. It still didn't work. This fuseblock was bad, also.
I pulled the fuseblock and attached directly to the wires out (cold side) on the back. For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor, of which I attached my 25 amp bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector. The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. Pull it out the same way. I connected it to the 30 amp bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.
Success! I now have cold air blowing, front and back. Less than $20 for wire, individual fuseblocks, and connectors.
Attached Thumbnails
Attached Files
link4.pdf (48.3 KB, 23 views)It is usually a faulty interior fuse block, specifically at the blower fuse. Between the wire harness connector on the back and the fuse on the front, there is a break in the power supply through the block. You can replace the fuse block, or bypass the block altogether, like I did, and run a independent fused wire to the blower.
The resistor pack can go bad, however, if the max speed fan setting doesn't work, then it is not the resistor pack. Max fan speed bypasses the resistor pack. There is a different rated resistor for each slower fan speed.
Note: Both of my fuseblocks (interior and under the hood) were dead for the blower circuit, and I bypassed both. See the attached images in the linked thread. __________________
The drawing is of the engine bay
fuseblock near the battery.As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).
If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.
If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).
Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.
Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.
If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.
#13
06-12-2010, 01:04 PM
Little help please!
I just found this "Forum" and this one correction could make it my favorite...
Vehicle 1999 Discovery II
No AC fan on any speed including "Hi". Just didn't turn on the other day. Blower fan motor. Removed blower, hooked jumper to good, 12volt source - blower ran fine.
I have power at under hood (100 amp, fuse link, 4) and under dash (30 amp, fuse #7).
I have removed the top nut on the under dash fuse panel and pulled it as far down as I can, hindered by a wire harness that attaches at the front of the panel. Can I unhook the plug, without fear of some kind of ECU or BCU problem. Negative lead to battery is unhooked for safety.
I want to install the bypass wire and inline fuse (already bought it
)
Thanks
My spouse of 43 years really wants her Air Conditioning fan to work! It is very HOT here in South Florida.
David
Vehicle 1999 Discovery II
No AC fan on any speed including "Hi". Just didn't turn on the other day. Blower fan motor. Removed blower, hooked jumper to good, 12volt source - blower ran fine.
I have power at under hood (100 amp, fuse link, 4) and under dash (30 amp, fuse #7).
I have removed the top nut on the under dash fuse panel and pulled it as far down as I can, hindered by a wire harness that attaches at the front of the panel. Can I unhook the plug, without fear of some kind of ECU or BCU problem. Negative lead to battery is unhooked for safety.
I want to install the bypass wire and inline fuse (already bought it
)Thanks
My spouse of 43 years really wants her Air Conditioning fan to work! It is very HOT here in South Florida.
David
I should have said a little MORE help please...
All I can say is...
#16
08-05-2010, 03:10 PM
any tips or is this my solution?
Sp far this is the most knowledgeable thread i;ve found hoping this is my solution mabey you guys can point me right.
Today jumped out at hte gas station hopped back in the Disco 2001. and No AC blower. It has cold air when moving coming out but no blower. THe Unit is saying no faults (I checked by holding down the direction and auto) for the diagnostic. No Faults .
Looked at a few threads and checked all fuses OK .
Checked power to fuse 6 and fuse 7 and NOTHING. no power to either of those fuses.
I hear the clicking in the pass footwell but no fans whatsoever.
Is this the dreaded 6 and 7 fuse block issue? If so this bypass will work for me correct. Or will this only work if there is power to the 6 and 7 fuse. I have the shop manual but I cannot seem to locate any info on where the relays are for the system either.
Any tips and or advice would be greatly appreciated. IF the ABove fix will work for my situation please let me know before i start hacking things up. Its 99 degrees here with 100% humidity and that is BRUTAL without AC. I am was planning on going on a trip friday in the LR For a week and now Im having doubts. This is an urgent cry for help. I've been searching all day for some info and just need that last bit of advice annd or motivation.
Thanks guy in advance!!
This is my 2nd discovery , first one was a 99 second is a 01 and I also own a 94 Range Rover Country LWB that is stuck with the ebrake on . NOW THATs for another day.
Thanks,
Jon
Today jumped out at hte gas station hopped back in the Disco 2001. and No AC blower. It has cold air when moving coming out but no blower. THe Unit is saying no faults (I checked by holding down the direction and auto) for the diagnostic. No Faults .
Looked at a few threads and checked all fuses OK .
Checked power to fuse 6 and fuse 7 and NOTHING. no power to either of those fuses.
I hear the clicking in the pass footwell but no fans whatsoever.
Is this the dreaded 6 and 7 fuse block issue? If so this bypass will work for me correct. Or will this only work if there is power to the 6 and 7 fuse. I have the shop manual but I cannot seem to locate any info on where the relays are for the system either.
Any tips and or advice would be greatly appreciated. IF the ABove fix will work for my situation please let me know before i start hacking things up. Its 99 degrees here with 100% humidity and that is BRUTAL without AC. I am was planning on going on a trip friday in the LR For a week and now Im having doubts. This is an urgent cry for help. I've been searching all day for some info and just need that last bit of advice annd or motivation.
Thanks guy in advance!!
This is my 2nd discovery , first one was a 99 second is a 01 and I also own a 94 Range Rover Country LWB that is stuck with the ebrake on . NOW THATs for another day.
Thanks,
Jon
#17
08-06-2010, 07:45 AM
Pain in the buttocks, but it worked for us.
Jon,
My opinion, having suffered a similar fate, is - go for it! There are no guarantees for any of us, or from any of us, but I had nearly identical symptoms and it sure saved us.
Hardest part for me was removing the plugs and panel to get to the area I needed to correct.
Good luck and post your results - either way.
"Cool" Dave
My opinion, having suffered a similar fate, is - go for it! There are no guarantees for any of us, or from any of us, but I had nearly identical symptoms and it sure saved us.
Hardest part for me was removing the plugs and panel to get to the area I needed to correct.
Good luck and post your results - either way.
"Cool" Dave
#18
06-30-2012, 04:52 PM
#19
07-01-2012, 04:00 PM
I am the one who wrote the "how-to" back in 2008. I do not have additional pictures.
To fix a bad fuseblock (interior) assuming intermittent power, pull the block and check for power at the connector(s) noted. One row of connectors is bringing power to the block, the other row is sending power from the protection of the fuses. If you have power at the wire(s) coming into the block then you only need to jump from one row of connectors (incoming power) to the other (fused outgoing (to blower)).
Pull the noted connectors (as needed (rear a/c if you have it)) and pull out the white retainer and dig out the specified wire(s). THE WIRES ALREADY HAVE A CONNECTOR ATTACHED. Take your inline fused wire and attach the appropriate connector to each end of the inline fuse wire. Then attach incoming powered wired you dug out to one end and then attach the formally fused wire (to the blower) that you dug out from the other row of connectors.
You now have fused power to the blower bypassing the original fuseblock. Your blower should work now.
To fix a bad fuseblock (interior) assuming intermittent power, pull the block and check for power at the connector(s) noted. One row of connectors is bringing power to the block, the other row is sending power from the protection of the fuses. If you have power at the wire(s) coming into the block then you only need to jump from one row of connectors (incoming power) to the other (fused outgoing (to blower)).
Pull the noted connectors (as needed (rear a/c if you have it)) and pull out the white retainer and dig out the specified wire(s). THE WIRES ALREADY HAVE A CONNECTOR ATTACHED. Take your inline fused wire and attach the appropriate connector to each end of the inline fuse wire. Then attach incoming powered wired you dug out to one end and then attach the formally fused wire (to the blower) that you dug out from the other row of connectors.
You now have fused power to the blower bypassing the original fuseblock. Your blower should work now.
#20
12-09-2012, 01:14 AM
Well I have fallen victim to the Blower not working at all now that we got the first glimpse of snow. Last week it started working at what ever speed it was set at and then it would randomly turn off. Then back on, then off, then back on.
Went to the yard and grabbed an entire blower motor, housing, relays etc. Everything. Wasnt sure if I would need it or any of it, but knew where there was a Disco 2 so i figured it was worth it for it all. Hoping it is not the fuse panel like I am reading here, but I guess for how this is reading, it might not be that bad.
Time to start reading and figuring this out, its cold and its even colder to and from work.
Went to the yard and grabbed an entire blower motor, housing, relays etc. Everything. Wasnt sure if I would need it or any of it, but knew where there was a Disco 2 so i figured it was worth it for it all. Hoping it is not the fuse panel like I am reading here, but I guess for how this is reading, it might not be that bad.
Time to start reading and figuring this out, its cold and its even colder to and from work.