I Would also like to report that my new windshield is not heating and my driver seat is not heating. ARGH

 

Fixed the heater blower. It was the connection on the right side of the housing as stated. Ground was bad. Replaced with new butt connectors and sealed them up, feels like a hair dryer blasting out of every vent. Worked better then it ever has. Verified Power to the connections on the new windshield. So I guess I just need a good frost to verify the new heated glass works. Now onto the drivers seat.

 

I think this just happned to me... Ill check it out this week... Summer in suth florida is not pleasant with out a/c air lol

 

I started looking at the forum tonight because my A/C blower quit. What luck, here's a thread. My blower stopped, then started working again. Then a couple of days ago I turned off the engine while waiting in the bank drive through. When I restarted, the blower no longer worked. It hasn't worked since. The compressor works, but the electric radiator fan doesn't. What's that all about? We're going to need A/C pretty soon here. I've got a new viscous fan clutch to install tomorrow night too.

 

Electric cooling fan has fuse and relay in box underhood. If electric fan does not spin freely, it may be starting to sieze, and that will blow the fuse, replace fan motor.

Inside fan has different wiring and you should have a copy of the RAVE (Rover's name for the shop manuals) downloaded so you have schematics, color photos of locations, etc.

 

PalmettoDisco I'm resurrecting your old thread... thanks for the great troubleshooting guide. However I am still stuck....

Have good voltage to motor at connector....motor spins with external power source...ran test on interior fuse block #7 fuse has power....connector 0584 pin has power on block.

In your notes you say "...then either the voltage is less (I have 12-13v)or there is a loose connection/cut wire." Any experience with this? Suggestions on where to start?
Cheers!

 

The blower motor needs voltage AND amperage to spin. My scenario exactly; I had 13.5 volts but it would not turn. I followed under dash fuse panel bypass thread, which I found on a different forum, to repair. Over a year later, no problems.

 

So are you saying that even though my tests on the fuse block indicated power in and out I should go ahead with the bypass surgery anyway?

 

You already bypassed the truck's wiring to test the blower (which worked) so you have proven the HVAC circuit is suspect. I would say there is likely a "cracked" solder inside one of the fuseblocks and is touching just enough to send power, but fails under load.

 

volts measured with and without load can be way different, as mentioned. A high resitance connection can read 12 volts, with no load.