A.c. condenser looks good....

 

What kind of coolant and mixture?

 

50/50 pentosin sf and distilled water. Pentosin is the same as VW/Audi g12. It's a great coolant.

 

Ok. I just warmed it up at idle for 20 minutes. 204.8 and heat on, super hot. Turned heat off. Revved engine a bit. Lower radiator hose below thermostat is barely warm. All other hoses are hot to the touch. Normal? I've felt that hose get hot after driving. Maybe the thermostat is acting erratically? Normal driving temps are always good though....

 

Lower hose won't get hot until you let it idle for a loooong time or drive it.

 

How many miles have you put on it? Have you asked for Turner's thoughts?
......

 

About 5000 miles. Turner said ideal running temp is 195 and anything under 210 is nothing to worry about. I'm not worried at all. It never get above 208-210 at idle. It's just weird that my driving temps are 188-197 mostly. I'm thinking I might have gotten a somewhat flakey gen 180 thermostat....

 

With stock style T-stat setup no matter if U use (172.4*, 180*, or 190*) T-state, rover engine will always idle at higher temp, now if you press the gas just a bit to raise rpm over 1100-1200, then you will see temp start to drop, that happens because at idle (700rpm or so), waterpump doesn't make enough pressure to overcome the top soft spring in T-stat, so hot water really doesn't get to T-stat piston to heat it up, it only gets cool water from radiator & stays close most of the time, & as soon as it gets hot enough to open, again cooler water from rad closes the T-stat by rushing trough it,
As soon as you start driving rpm goes up & builds enough water pressure to push down the soft spring in T-stat and introduce enough hot water to its piston to keep it open long enough to move adequate water trough radiator, & same cycle again & again, ,,
Now when engine temp reaches 15*f more than what is stamped on T-stat, (let's say engine temp is at 195* & we have a 180*stat),, T-stat doesn't really close anymore, so at that point all is up to your cooling system ability to lower the temp,,,
If an engine makes more heat than cooling system can get rid of, we will see higher temps, the more efficient the system the lower the engine temp, (by the way even the largest oil cooler will not effect the coolant temp more than 2*-3*f),, so you can't count on an oil cooler to reduce coolant temp, it can only help just a little,.
As for Turner engines, I believe they use Kent 180 cam, if that's the case, that cam has shorter duration but much higher lift, which will make the engine produce more torque at below 3500rpm , so it is making more torque & more heat by doing so, that's why it's running warmer,
I don't have a top hat block, & I will be scared to death if My disco's (both 4.6) see temp getting anywhere close to 200*f, LOL,!! So I went with inline T-stat & extra cooling capacity, & in worst case scenario in uphill with very high ambiant & A/C I have seen 195*f, in all other driving conditions & long stop lights , it's between 177* to 190* ,depending on ambiant temp, (at stop lights they run cooler with A/C on, rather than off)!
If you feel you are safe with those temps you are getting, then no problem, but if you want to lower it , then you will need a more sufficient cooling system & stock system will not be able to do it for your, (as you mentioned all your cooling components are new, but it's not doing what you expected,)

 

Makes sense and I've read that before. Thanks. It just seems that many see lower temps with older systems in place. I guess I just find it strange that a brand new cooling system isn't more efficient at idle.

 

Most of our truck's don't have a new engine like yours & they don't make as much torque as yours does, (for same reason they produce a little less heat at every combustion cycle),