^ second the above. I'm assuming no codes / no exhaust leak?

 

Impossible to pin point location using various listening aids. From the top sounds like valve train, from the bottom sounds like rod or sleeve.

No codes, runs great other than the sound.

My thought on going to straight 50W oil was just as tool to rule out the lifters. I had no intention of running with it or correcting the problem with the heavy oil.

Since it the tick is clearly thermally drivin, Its a good chance its a sleeve and not a lifter. The sound is not coming from the front cover so I feel I can rule out the oil pump and the sound would be coming from aft of the engine if it was the flex plate.

I have a spare block that I can swap with but that sure is a lot of work if the problem is not fixed. I guess I can pull the heads and see if I have any cutting of the sleeve into the head gasket. Again, alot of work but gotta get ride of this tick.

I'll get right to this after I replace the rear main on a fresh engine I installed in my 04' last year.

I should just roll these baby to the sale lot and save myself a lot of headaches.

 

Well, an oil psi test would also clear the pump. 50 PSI or two bottles of Lucas will stiffen the oil for diagnostic purposes. Likewise a couple of bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil can go the other way, again for diagnostics. With valve cover off you might get an even better idea of whats happening.

As far as the slipped sleeve, I thought I saw some posts about pinning the sleeve, and even crimping the edge of the sleeve (sounds shady even to me).

 

Pinning the sleeve at the bottom would be possible as long as the pin doesn't shear due to the expansion/contraction.

I also was thinking about spraying the block down with cold water to see if I can cause the block to contract enough to squeeze the sleeve from moving. Aluminum has a much higher expansion/contraction rate then steel so this may work if only if I could some how remove the coolant jacket void from this process.

Maybe I could somehow place a coolant recirulation system in that would bring in fresh cold water continually. Then I could see if keeping the block/coolant very cold would not cause the tick to start.

From this thinking looks like I'm toast!!!

 

dont worry about the liners moving, they wont hurt anything unless there is a crack behind the liner. They cannot drop down into the engine because they are recessed into the block on either side at bottom of liner. All they can do is tick around when warm and drive you nuts.

 

If you believe in your heart that the tick begins when engine gets to a certain temp, you could install an in-line thermostat, and put in a 160 or 180. You can force the engine to be cooler. MPG will suffer, and the D2 has a monitoring thermostat on the bottom of the radiator that may throw a code for thermostat stuck open.

I have seen a number of Discos at the salvage yard that had no stat (D1s), the previous owners limping them along till the bitter end. I tested mine with no stat, it ran like 135 - 145F, but did go to closed loop on the fuel system.

As for pinning, I think I saw it on another site as like a $100 option during a rebuild.

The crimp method I believe was reported as a small crimp at the top of the sleeve, just at the edge of the block, done with a punch. Didn't really look into it, but keep in mind that in some countries guys don't even have a dealer and have to be inventive (like thru bolting viscous fan clutches, etc.).

For testing you could also rig a garden hose and pump in cool water while running at idle. The water pump spec is 10 PSI, at 1000 rpm, 2.4 gallons a minute. Not much challenge for a water hose (kind of like flushing a boat motor). Now you would not want to run high rpms for long. Pix from a D1.