tired of denting the floor board trying to climb up the mountains and hills. I need more power and torque, both on and off the road. not interested in conversion, on this one. I'll save that post for my rrc, when I find the right one. so I am wanting to get the best hp/torque combo out of the rover v8. this engine was plenty, before i went ghetto with gears, tires, the butt ton of bolt on bs, a couple of heavies in the back...etc.
so,I'm in the process of getting a replacement power plant built, as I am sure to need one. not going cannibal or the usual suspects. mainly because of the extra warranty cost and their stipulations. not saying that they are not a solid choice, just not the one that I am making.. but I am outsourcing it for the most part. (thanks to a great source, contact and friend) to be top hat 4.6. still hammering down some build details. your input would be appreciated
1. cam- best to go with crower? and which one is best suited?
Camshafts | Aftermarket High Performance Cams | Racing Cams
still a little unsure on block and pistons, also.
2. .0 or .6 block- arguments for both. not really caring about sleeve/liner with the top hats. but i really see no solid evidence of either being weaker/more susceptible to crack...etc.
3. pistons- i see people choosing to go with the 4.0 piston instead of the .6...more compression? anyone?


thanks in advance for helping to keep me in the left lane

 

Hell yes, this has become my specialty.

People are going to kill me for saying it. First thing is a K&N Pod filter and a custom intake. I had to make my own and I've still got some supplies left over. I'd be willing to part with the left over supplies and the design of mine. The factory intake is so restrictive it isn't even funny.

Next, Port and polish. Have a reputable machine shop do it. You need it done to the entire upper and lower intake manifold as well as the heads. Have them polish the throttle body too.

New valves are a great addition. Bigger valves means more air, just don't go too big.

I have a Kents Torque Cam. I like it a lot, but after all of my research I wish I had gone with a more aggressive one than I got. I got the one I did so I wouldn't have to have more head work done, but its worth the investment if you have the cash to go the extra mile.

Rhoads bleed down lifters. They will be a little louder, but they will increase torque on the low end and convert to a standard style lifter over (I think) 2600 RPM.

Headers are always a great addition, but I do not personally have a set (yet). I will within the next year or so.

High flow catalytic converter are a must. I have Magnaflow and love them. I'd also recommend a Borla muffler. They are straight through, but not too loud. Great tone, however. I have the Pro XS and love it. Practically no drone compared to other mufflers I've tried (all of them).

Other than that, about the only thing you can do is get a 5.2 Stroker kit. Theyre expensive and have to be shipped straight out of the UK. I think V8 Tuners has them.

After all of that I have a completely different truck than I had before. She's no 5 speed Mustang GT with 4.10 gears (my other ride), but she holds her own pretty damn well.

Oh, and a 5 speed manual trans is also a hell of an addition, but it's pretty costs. I will be dropping one in within the next few *years*.

Edit: oh, dont forget to upgrade brakes after all this. I have Terrafirma drilled and slotted rotors with federo pads. Love 'em, stops on a dime and doesn't get hot. I got them from Lucky 8

 

Are you sure you can't talk yourself into the LS swap?
You can probably get a 6.2 Liter LS3 for the same money.
With your mad skills I know you could make that puppy scream.

 

The 50229 cam and long tube headers really improved my 110's performance. Honestly I didn't think the DII is that bad though.

I however agree with shad tree, with all the money you will have to dump into a rover motor to get the power and reliability with your fab skills I'd go LS

 

Computrickery is my Achilles heel.
For me, Ls swap is a no brainer, if it was a 95 d1.
I have done a couple of ls1s in jeeps, but again older and easier. And a whole other simpler creature, entirely.
If I were convinced that I could figure out how to please the evil robots, I would. I like the newer 327. Rpms! And shade tree prolly sorted out the adapters for it.
But I really am as dumb as I look, when it comes to the management systems. And everything being a happy symphony.

Hence the thread title.

Headed over to re read shade tree thread

 

And the motor was a fine match before I got my grubby hands on it. Geared down and loaded like a 1 ton

 

Just brushed up on your thread.
While extremely impressive and a masterful feat, I'd, personally, want to keep the tranny and adapt.
I'll have to save that project for an older truck. Btw I was buying a new truck the other day and the owner of the stealership gave me the keys to a new Vette w z51 pckg. Been since mid 90s since I've driven one....... My gawd, that is a head slinger. Kind of want to go back for a new truck next year just to see if he will let me try out a z06

 

People with no fear get into lots of trouble in Corvettes.


The "Computer Telemetry" involved in the Rover LS swap was really only a little harder than a normal LS install in an older "non-electronic" car. I really didn't spend a lot of time explaining it in the build thread because it is so similar.... and I figured it would only put people to sleep.


I haven't mentioned this yet but I've been thinking it over. If I had it to do over again I would try to make the Rover transmission and transfer case mate up the Chevy motor and flexplate. If you can solve that problem the whole swap comes down to hood clearance and power steering pump location, with maybe a little exhaust manifold squeezing thrown in.


Heck, I still might do it on this truck if I get bored one winter.
I am at your humble service if there is anything I can help with.

 

Super charged range rover swap. All the power, none of the headache.

 

Man, the all aluminum 5.3 would be ideal to swap into one of these... Just saw a complete engine on my local CL for around $1500. I've bought a few iron block 5.3s to use in swaps for well under $1000.