sorry I should have used punctuation... that up to 6500 rpm is a copy and paste from tuner. I did not mean to imply that I was throwing these pistons around like a motorcycle. that is just part of the description of their springs.

 

just a heads up.
stopped at harbor freight this morning for an engine stand and a couple of good deals going on.


highlight that I saw
2ton foldable shop crane from $300 down to $190 with coupon
1.5 ton aluminum fast floor jack from 120 down to 68.. also heavy 3ton from 170 to 84
winches are also on sale again

 

heavy 3ton from 170 was this aluminum also

 

no. it was a heavy one (steel). the 1.5 ton was the only really good deal on aluminum
77lbs for the 3ton steel
27lbs for the 1.5 aluminum

 

update on shopping
turns out rimmer was the best source, for the bulk of the valve train. v8tuner had more options, but at around $500 savings (not a typo), I went with rimmer for valves/dual springs and seats/perf. valve guides.
crower directly for the cam
summit was best price on headers and the same on lifters as rhodes' was directly. (summit has both of those items listed improperly....wrong # on lifters and wrong description on the hedmans)


as a side note= hours of data cross referencing, I found some springs from crane (96883-16) that work and the same as tuner offering. and edlebrock (9757) exhaust valves for a sbc that cross-referenced. a ton of 350 valves are same diameter values of both standard and oversized.....the problem is matching that with correct length.
if I had more patients, I would have figured it out for a purchase on this side of pond....but my head hurts and summit is not paying me. I threw in the hat and checked out at rimmer bros..I have always had good results with them anyway.

 

You probably know this, but its worth the extra effort to break in the cam with the old springs and then tear it back apart to put the new springs in post break in.

 

please explain further? That should be a huge no no with a higher lift cam, with stronger push rods you are liable to float a valve and destroy a piston or head.

 

Having built many high performance 'screamers' this article is pretty good. I would never break in (run in) any rebuilt or new engine on synthetic oils as it so greatly reduces the 'surface mating' capabilities. My ethos has always been to break in slow and gently for the first 1000 miles whilst elevating the rpm in gentle stages. After 1500 miles run carefully at 3/4 rpm for another 200-500 miles. I have found excessive load is the killer of new/rebuilt engines, overloading in too higher gear, but it won't happen with an autobox.

Obviously with race engines one cannot afford these extended times, distances and luxuries but the components are 'blueprinted' and of superior quality to commercial components.

How to "Break-In" Your Newly Rebuilt Engine

 

The old springs, since they are more broken in, put less pressure on the new very soft cam and lifters as opposed to the new stiff springs which will put more pressure. With more pressure they are going to wear down on the lobes more and therefore decrease lift. It's a pretty commonly known way to break in a cam.

 

I know its ill advised to put old rocker arms on a new shaft, but what about the other way around? do I need new shafts for my new arms? or is it cool, if they get polished with other stuff at machine shop?