Key broke off and these instructions were great info. I ended up removing a couple of pins so my door key would work in the ignition (had been replaced before) I got it all back together and started it but then I couldn't pull out my key. I disconnected my battery and then I could remove it. But with the battery connected I could insert it start it but not remove it. I then discovered that if I removed the little two pin plug on the left hand side of the mechanism It would let me turn it to the off position where it could be removed. Any idea what happened that caused this. I guess I will just leave it disconnected as everything seems to work without it.

 

I disconnected that two wire plug over a year ago with no problems.

 

Just thought I'd add - Prices have now gone down. Bought a new one on Ebay from the U.K., R and C, Hartwll Farm Cranfield,Beds,MK43 ODX, Phone 07860 792317 - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...PSSOSB:US:1123

$45 Canadian before shipping.

 

I found those Ignition bolts without head to be a bear to get out. My 12Volt Cordless drill wasn't up to it, probably work out with a corded drill. Had to take the front Instrument panel off to get the drill in - actually just the right side wires and then pushed it back to the left door post. Cost me $50 to get the new Ignition rekeyed to my old keys.

 

Good day. My old one looks like yours. The one sent from U.K. is missing the whole brass box in picture five, and doesn't have the Ignition Buzzer
at all.

That brass box is an electrical/mechanically activated switch for what?

Can I use the new Ignition switch by not having the Ignition Buzzer hooked up, and ignoring the mechanical switch - if so, should I splice
the two leads off of it together, or bypass it like the buzzer?

I'm guessing that I should send it back to the U.K. for the proper one.
But, they say this is the right one.

 

Just wanted to add some notes to this thread on my experience. I used a dremel type tool with a cutting disc to make slots in the rivet screws. was able to remove them with just a screwdriver. That part went well. Got all of the plugs off - one of them I was not able to remove (the little two wire jobbie) so I just unscrewed both screws holding that electrical item from the ignition switch body. I was able to just "dig" around that pin with a little precision screwdriver to get it removed - no drilling required as the ignition switch body is very soft material. I removed the shuttle and paid close attention to not let the spring go flying. (I'm calling the part that slides out of the lock body the shuttle. It would be the part that the spinner goes directly into and it also holds that little spring and lever and it also has the 0, I, II marked on it.

I got the spinner out of the barrel. Put my key in and depending upon how far in I pushed the key into the spinner my wafers could be found to be all flush with the spinner or they could mostly be sticking out a millimeter or two. I decided to push the key in as far as it would go and file down the wafers at that point. A caution to anyone doing this procedure - MARK THE SPINNER ORIENTATION IN THE SHUTTLE before you pull it out the first time! The spinner will go into the shuttle two different ways (the original way and as I found out it will also go in 180 degrees from original). I must have put my spinner into the shuttle in the 180 degree orientation because my key became stuck in it and there was no way to pull it out. I ended up finally cutting all of the plastic off the key and then cutting the edges of the key off so they were the same width as the shaft of the key and only then was I able to push the spinner out of the shuttle and get my key back out.

When I put it all back together I used the original pin and put jb weld around it to hopefully prevent it from popping back out. I will definately also need to get another key cut unless I turn my original key with a pliers... I'll try to post some pictures later.

I have not reinstalled the entire lock body into the vehicle yet so I don't know how much improvement I have or haven't made, I will comment again after I get it all back on the truck.

 

well, my results were really not a great improvement. I think I may end up getting a used one off ebay that works smoothly. I will just need to make sure I have 2 keys on the keychain.

 

Instead of carrying 2 keys, you could have a 'custom 'key made. One side for the key can be cut to fit the door, the other to fit the ignition lock. File a notch on one side of the head so you know which end opens the door and which runs the ignition. Problem solved.

 

A lot of cars experience problems related to locks sometimes. The most common of them is key going only partway into the ignition and refusing to return. In such cases, you can do nothing much yourselves. Without messing around with your lock, you should call an Expert locksmith to take care of your car lock.

 

The comments regarding the self-help repair on sticking ignition switch problem is very helpful, along with everyone's comments. I have a 2002 Land Rover Discovery II SD model and I had a problem with the key not rotating when attempting to start vehicle. I would have to wiggle the key around to get it to start. Eventually it failed completely and I could not start it. Initially I thought the problem may be with my key so I tried my spare key and had the same problem. I called my Land Rover dealer (along with several others in the state),and they all gave me quotes from $800-$1200 to have the ignition switch replaced. In addition, I would have to wait approximately two months to have the parts ordered from the UK. On top of that, I would have to pay to have my car towed to the dealer due to the fact I could not start it. Of course I thought this was ridiculous so I thought I would give this repair a try. Here in the Midwest, we have had temps in the single digits and attempting the repair in such weather wouldn't be a good idea. I decided to try calling around to locksmiths. Most locksmith had no experience with the Land Rover locks. After calling approximately six locksmiths, without success, I was about to give up. I finally came across a locksmith, to my surprise, was familiar with this problem. He not only came to my house to do the repair but he did it in approximately an hour for $250 & saved me tons of money and time. I am using both original keys after the repair. Thus I gave him an extra $100 tip. His name is Bruce and his phone number is 847-539-9498. He is located in northern Illinois in the city of Antioch. If you are in another state maybe he can relay the instructions on how he repaired my vehicle to your locksmith and hopefully saving you time and money.

2002 Land Rover Discovery II SD