Where did you get the reference to buy this PCV? I can't find any crosswalks between any of the part numbers given and the FV308.

 

Here is the complete list of Cross Reference #'s for the FRAM FV308:

AC-DELCO CV940C
AUTO-TUNE PT3858
BECK/ARNLEY 045-0264
BECK/ARNLEY 045-0272
BORGWARNER PCV380
CANADIAN TIRE 17-9275
CARQUEST V288
CENEX PC193
CHAMP PC193
COBRA WCV219
DEUTSCH PCV147
FILKO P257
GRAND PRIX PC193
GROUP 7 PV1027
HASTINGS HV130
HONDA 17130-PM3-003
JIFFY LUBE MV1023
JIFFY LUBE MV1027
KEM PCV146
KRALINATOR V233
LEE LV-193
LUBER-FINER PC193
MAGNUM PRODUCTS MV1023
MIGHTY 6-1018
MOBIL PV1027
NOVO 2233
PUROLATOR PV1027
QUAKER STATE PV1027
SCARLEN INDUSTRIES AV1023S
SERVICE 1 59242
SHELL PV1027
STANDARD V288
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS V288
WARNER PC193
WIX 66084

However the PCV valve in the link will work as it comes from the same exact vehicle. 1988-1991 Honda Civic/CRX 1.5L 4cylinder.

Benefits:

Replacing a delicate OEM plastic nipple on the Intake with a metal unit = Benefit #1
Removing the OEM Plastic Baffle that either is fully clogged or soon will be = Benefit #2
Give the 4.0/4.6L V8 Engine an actual working PCV which helps to eliminate excessive crankcase pressure = Benefit #3

There is ABSOLUTELY nothing to prove. I've installed a working PCV onto a system which originally had nothing. It works, it's simple, it looks 100% OEM, and it's much easier to clean/service in the future if needed.

 

Finally did this... all seems well, but I might have got some plastic in the upper manifold when I was getting the nipple out of there. Damn thing was epoxied in there it seems. I’m not sure if that’s what a previous owner had done or if that’s a factory job... what a pain. The nipple broke and I had to start drilling. I did my best. Some plastic might have got in there.. I put some silicone spray on the threads of the FV308 and installed it - it threaded in properly. I didn’t crank it all the way in, but maybe one thread from all the way. I used a new hose clamp. The old one wasn’t even clamped...

Then I followed the hose down to deal with the oil separator at the other end in the valve cover. It took some work and that’s a tight space to work in as others mentioned, but I got the hose out with the metal tube (by accident). I got the metal tube out of the hose easily enough. Then I clamped the metal tube to a table and drilled out the oil separator. I didn’t even bother trying to yank the thing out. I just drilled it. I had enough after dealing with the nipple on the other end and was in a drilling sort of mood by then. Annoying deer flies were getting to me too. I cleaned up the metal tube and used a pipe cutter to cut the top off of it (I’ve got an 03 DII with the closed up tube). I could tell the separator was completely clogged, by the way, but I completely drilled mine to a molecular level.

The adventure wasn’t over yet, though. Reinstalling the tube was next and that somehow went flying up behind the manifold by the crankshaft position sensor, which I’d replaced a little while ago. It was impossible to get and I was cursing the day. I’ve never been great at fishing. I spent a good amount of time trying to get the tube back out, but ended up accidentally knocking it down further, which fortunately fell through onto the ground. I made sure that I had the 13mm socket over the tube with an extension and began tapping that sumbich back in the valve cover. I replaced the hose and used a new hose clamp, which was a bit of fun installing in a tight space. I ended up using a socket wrench on the hose clamp.

Thank you all for the help and feedback. The vehicle is driving pretty well. I hope my post helps someone too. I feel that I could do this much more easily now. I’ve got a few questions that I’d like to get some feedback if anyone has time:

It seemed like she was quieter, but I’m not sure. I also thought it felt a bit less responsive in the throttle, at least at first, but that could have just been me thinking that. It could have returned to “normal“ after a bit too or perhaps it’s actually normal now - or nothing actually changed. Then, I’m just wondering if a bit of the plastic nipple or epoxy crumbs in the manifold (I’m not sure any actually got in) would be a serious issue. It feels like she’s driving OK, though. I think I noticed less oil smell after the drive. I don’t know how any oil was actually passing through this system before, but it must have been impossible at some point. I don’t actually understand what this line is for and how this modification is intended to help, other than improving air/oil flow when needed. Can some help me understand this a bit better? Also, I’m wondering if this is intended to be permanent or if it’ll ever need cleaning or replacement.

Thanks again - cheers

 

"It seemed like she was quieter, but I’m not sure. I also thought it felt a bit less responsive in the throttle, at least at first, but that could have just been me thinking that. It could have returned to “normal“ after a bit too or perhaps it’s actually normal now - or nothing actually changed. Then, I’m just wondering if a bit of the plastic nipple or epoxy crumbs in the manifold (I’m not sure any actually got in) would be a serious issue. It feels like she’s driving OK, though. I think I noticed less oil smell after the drive. I don’t know how any oil was actually passing through this system before, but it must have been impossible at some point. I don’t actually understand what this line is for and how this modification is intended to help, other than improving air/oil flow when needed. Can some help me understand this a bit better? Also, I’m wondering if this is intended to be permanent or if it’ll ever need cleaning or replacement."


This is what happened to me when I let it run without the hose. The original plastic intake sucking air. It seemed softer. More quiet. And ... LESS POWER. I gave up trying to get the Baffle out. Sorry but it's not as easy as Best says. Maybe he has been lucky. But in my case I think the baffle is melted or burned into place. It's in there like concrete and will not move. It's missing 2 dics now. I put the brass PCV on the intake and connected the hose to the baffle.

It seems to run a little different but I can't put a finger on it. The baffled is clean now (no clogs) and it's got the brass PCV valve attached. But there is one thing I noticed from my oil pressure gauge that has not been mentioned on this tread ....

A 1-2-3 PSI DROP IN OIL PRESSURE.

 

You should't try to screw it in all the way. It's tapered so that it forms a gas-tight seal, so if you screw it in too far you're liable to crack your intake.

 

You’re driving with the PCV installed, as well as the oil separator (in the valve cover)? I’m definitely not someone with any expertise here, but I’d just pry out the metal tube with a grip of some type. That area is tough to work in... I didn’t warm up the vehicle or use any kind of penetrating spray and managed to get the metal tube removed without too much effort (at least compared to the nightmare I encountered with the nipple being fused (or possibly epoxied) to the intake manifold and then having the metal sleeve go flying back behind all the spark plugs. What a circus that was. I’d definitely manage this with a lot less trouble the second time around. I don’t think anyone can help too much, unfortunately. It’s just likely to take some drilling out and some awkward effort in tight areas.

 

I see. From my photo, did it look like it was in too far? I didn’t crank it through too hard and left a thread or two, like I thought I saw in some photos here.

 

Ready this thread has been painful. 11 pages for one of the simplest/best mods a person can do to a LR engine. It is obvious the Discos are beginning to attract owners who are not lifelong gearheads but willing to learn and try. Apparently we do need to do a video. To the guys questioning effectiveness, directions, and the other help you are receiving understand this. The senior contributors on this forum typically have decades of knowledge and experience in automotive service. Some are professional technicians, some of us are degreed engineers, some are highly trained machinist. We even had a patent lawyer regularly contributing at one point. Together you can take their collective advice as gospel. They are spending time helping you for FREE - be careful of biting the hand that feeds you.

With respect to the improvement/function of the mod - read some engineering information on what a PCV valve is and what it does. Wikipedia actually has a good explanation. It baffles all of us why LR used the piece of crap they used, but it does not matter why, just that the PCV mod is worlds better and solves 90% of the oil leaks and sludge build up.

To the poster struggling the most. Your baffle is going to up again if you don't get it out. If you have enough of the baffle out to slip a small socket or a large bolt in the end of the tube, put something in there and then clamp it tight with visegrips and start twisting till it comes loose. If you don't want to do that, just drill out the plastic with it in place then vacuum up the pieces. There is a baffle on the inside of the valve cover that will prevent the pieces from falling all the way in to the engine and even if a few did they likely will not harm anything. Worst possibility is they wind up in the oil pickup screen and a few small pieces are not going to be an issue there, best case is if they are super small they are trapped by the oil filter or if they are larger they go to the bottom of the pan and are there forever doing no harm.


This is probably what the bottom of yours looks like.

 

I've tried to help, I've asked for pics of your setup, but I have yet to see anything so that I can try to help you. This is not a rocket science, it's a very basic and simple operation. If you go to the main write up sticky and actually go thru it (down where people have posted) there is a TON of images, of both 99-02 & 03-04 setups. Showing the different tubes, and how people drilled out or chopped off the tip on their 03-04 setups or removed their baffles on the 99-02 setup. You say you have a drop in oil pressure, how are you measuring it? Pictures please? There is no reason for the oil pressure to drop from opening up the clogged baffle to allow crankcase pressures to vent back into the intake. It has absolutely nothing to do with oil PSI which is made down at the oil pump near the bottom of the engine.

 

This is what a LR D2/P38 Looks like when the OEM Baffle is clogged INOP. As you can clearly see air is not flowing thru the engine properly. It instead builds up pressure which literally will cause the engine to leak out of every seal!!!!



Now here is the same image with a working PCV. You can clearly see the path of air going thru the engine thru the air box, filter, MAF, intake tube, throttle body, into the drivers side valve cover, thru the engine, out the passenger side valve cover, thru the now working FV308 PCV valve, into the intake manifold, and finally thru the combustion chambers and out the exhaust.