interior temp sensor
#11
I haven't done anything yet; the things I stated prior to this were things I'd done before hopping on the forums.
#12
IMHO - your RAVE be da same as mine, and you will find these pikturz in the electrical manual, on most pages for connectors. So look up the wiring diagrams, find the connector number, pop up the page for that connector, and BAM! there it is, just like I sent you. An man, those Rovers they took the pictures of don't look nothing like mine, no grime, no six quarts of old Valvoline; it is disgusting how clean they are.
Now since you were sent the picture of the item and where it is, has that helped you? That is what you asked for.
Here is black and white from the air conditioning section of the RAVE, it shows the fan about six inches from the color picture of connector previously sent.
Now since you were sent the picture of the item and where it is, has that helped you? That is what you asked for.
Here is black and white from the air conditioning section of the RAVE, it shows the fan about six inches from the color picture of connector previously sent.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 11-13-2011 at 09:37 PM.
#13
IMHO - your RAVE be da same as mine, and you will find these pikturz in the electrical manual, on most pages for connectors. So look up the wiring diagrams, find the connector number, pop up the page for that connector, and BAM! there it is, just like I sent you. An man, those Rovers they took the pictures of don't look nothing like mine, no grime, no six quarts of old Valvoline; it is disgusting how clean they are.
Now since you were sent the picture of the item and where it is, has that helped you? That is what you asked for.
Here is black and white from the air conditioning section of the RAVE, it shows the fan about six inches from the color picture of connector previously sent.
Now since you were sent the picture of the item and where it is, has that helped you? That is what you asked for.
Here is black and white from the air conditioning section of the RAVE, it shows the fan about six inches from the color picture of connector previously sent.
Suprisingly, mine was just as clean as the one in the picture - I guess it was owned by an old lady who just drove it to church and back (that MUST be why it only has 60,000 miles on it)...
but yes, that did help. Turns out it was just low on coolant - so my bad. but thanks for the help!
#14
Suprisingly, mine was just as clean as the one in the picture - I guess it was owned by an old lady who just drove it to church and back (that MUST be why it only has 60,000 miles on it)...
but yes, that did help. Turns out it was just low on coolant - so my bad. but thanks for the help!
but yes, that did help. Turns out it was just low on coolant - so my bad. but thanks for the help!
#15
Unfortunately, that is not a good thing. Coolant doesn't just disappear, and if you were low enough to lose flow to the heater core, there is likely an issue somewhere. Make sure you bleed the system with the bleeder screw when adding the new coolant, and then look for where you are losing it. Hopefully it is just a hose and you will see some under the truck. Otherwise, start to check for the symptoms of a head gasket.
Yeah, I've been keeping a close eye on the coolant level. I think the only reason it got that low is because I had to take a last-minute 1000 mile roadtrip. It's got a leak somewhere, slow but steady. It marks its territory for sure!
#16
The time to deal with a slow coolant leak is now, as it will only get worse. You can borrow a coolant pressure tester for free from auto parts store, run it up to 20 PSI, and wait for leaks , like 30 minutes. Might be a hose clamp, bottom of coolant jug, hard to see; or water pump; or where ever. Here's a layout, lots of places for a small leak.
If you think it might be in the oil, oil will be milky when drained.
If you think it might be going out the tail pipe (head gasket leak) there may be a sweet smell, and might hear bubbles flowing thru heater core. There is a $50 chemical test (and it will test like 16 cars) from auto parts store for combustion gas in coolant. Might be a candidate for stop leak to delay when you have to do the head gaskets.
If you think it might be in the oil, oil will be milky when drained.
If you think it might be going out the tail pipe (head gasket leak) there may be a sweet smell, and might hear bubbles flowing thru heater core. There is a $50 chemical test (and it will test like 16 cars) from auto parts store for combustion gas in coolant. Might be a candidate for stop leak to delay when you have to do the head gaskets.
#17
The time to deal with a slow coolant leak is now, as it will only get worse. You can borrow a coolant pressure tester for free from auto parts store, run it up to 20 PSI, and wait for leaks , like 30 minutes. Might be a hose clamp, bottom of coolant jug, hard to see; or water pump; or where ever. Here's a layout, lots of places for a small leak.
If you think it might be in the oil, oil will be milky when drained.
If you think it might be going out the tail pipe (head gasket leak) there may be a sweet smell, and might hear bubbles flowing thru heater core. There is a $50 chemical test (and it will test like 16 cars) from auto parts store for combustion gas in coolant. Might be a candidate for stop leak to delay when you have to do the head gaskets.
If you think it might be in the oil, oil will be milky when drained.
If you think it might be going out the tail pipe (head gasket leak) there may be a sweet smell, and might hear bubbles flowing thru heater core. There is a $50 chemical test (and it will test like 16 cars) from auto parts store for combustion gas in coolant. Might be a candidate for stop leak to delay when you have to do the head gaskets.
#19
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