I've got the "sloshing" noise
#31
11-05-2013, 08:42 AM
Three Wheeling
I am experiencing this sloshing noise as well. I am confused as to the procedure though. Also, without the heat on, there seems to be an ABUNDANT amount of heat being produced from the front of the windshield as if the defrost is on. I have to put the windows down a bit because of this (I like it arctic cold though)..
Any thoughts on this? Could it be related. I am going to get an ultragauge, but for now- No Check Engine, Temps are normal (based on the factory gauge) and the car runs whisper quiet other than the occasional sloshing noise, which tends to happen when I turn. Coincidence?
I also thought that Rovers were to avoid DexCool- The orange stuff. I am not sure which to put in! What is the best recommended coolant to put in?
Please help!
K
Any thoughts on this? Could it be related. I am going to get an ultragauge, but for now- No Check Engine, Temps are normal (based on the factory gauge) and the car runs whisper quiet other than the occasional sloshing noise, which tends to happen when I turn. Coincidence?
I also thought that Rovers were to avoid DexCool- The orange stuff. I am not sure which to put in! What is the best recommended coolant to put in?
Please help!
K
Last edited by Vai2kdna77; 11-05-2013 at 08:45 AM. Reason: Forgot to ask question
#32
11-05-2013, 04:43 PM
Baja
Tend to agree with most others, sounds like air locked into the cooling system. As Mike says bleed it off at the top hose bleed off point and fill up the reservoir whilst doing it until it pours out of the bleed screw. Don't forget to put the heater on the hottest setting first to open the heater circuit valves with the engine running at working temperature and then let it cool down before you work on the system (scalds are pretty nasty otherwise).
#33
11-05-2013, 06:59 PM
If you have a D2 then all I do is..
Raise the coolant tank.
Put in some coolant.
Run the coolant tank with the CAP OFF for about 5 minutes at 1,600 RPM.
If coolant blows out the top - STOP. You have a bad head gasket.
If coolant does not come out - keep running at 1,600 RPM for 5 minutes.
Then take the engine to idle.
Add coolant to bring the level up to the filled line.
Put the cap back on.
Clip the tank back into the clips.
You are done.
and you never have to deal with the damn dreadful bleed screw.
I did this two year ago after I changed the head gaskets.
Never touched the bleed screw.
I have never had to bleed the cooling system ..
Oh.. Well I did.
When I changed the radiator in Jan of 2013 - I did this exact bleeding technique again..
OK, well the bleed method worked twice for me.
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
Over and out.
10-7.
Raise the coolant tank.
Put in some coolant.
Run the coolant tank with the CAP OFF for about 5 minutes at 1,600 RPM.
If coolant blows out the top - STOP. You have a bad head gasket.
If coolant does not come out - keep running at 1,600 RPM for 5 minutes.
Then take the engine to idle.
Add coolant to bring the level up to the filled line.
Put the cap back on.
Clip the tank back into the clips.
You are done.
and you never have to deal with the damn dreadful bleed screw.
I did this two year ago after I changed the head gaskets.
Never touched the bleed screw.
I have never had to bleed the cooling system ..
Oh.. Well I did.
When I changed the radiator in Jan of 2013 - I did this exact bleeding technique again..
OK, well the bleed method worked twice for me.
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
Over and out.
10-7.
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