Just did water pump
Since I'm replacing the fan clutch on my D2, I figured I would go ahead and replace the water pump since I've got everything out of the way. Hope I didn't open a can of worms, but I had fun getting the two long bolts off on the right side of the water pump. While all the other bolts were fairly loose, I needed to use a 1/2" drive set on the right two. The bottom right was cross threaded and coolant came out of the bolt hole and it had permatex around the top of the bolt. The one above it was stripped and had to pull on the water pump while wrenching it out of there. The top one was covered in oil and had that dreaded white film at the base of the bolt. Someone's done this before and I'm hoping they didn't run the bolts in so tight that damage was done. I've got a bad feeling they may have done some damage. I'm wondering if they ran the bolts down too hard, would it have gone thru a water jacket or cracked the timing cover? After having done the heads on this thing, I'm gonna be mad as hell if I find out that the block is bad because some idiot didn't know how to change a water pump!! 


Eric



Eric
dont worry ...It's normal..... If you change the waterpump without completly draining the cooling system......like lazy me....when you remove the long bolts, they will weep coolant. Especially the bottom right long bolt. And yes they will have oil and crud on them... I too was worried and called my local LR guru and he said normal. The long bolts pass threw the timing cover and into the block. They are right on the edge of the cooling ports running to the water pump..hense the coolent leaking as now the timing cover gasket is a little decompressed. I just did my daughters this last week and ran into the same thing. i also had the bottom right short bolt that i could not re tighten. Had the same problem before with the same bolt on my RR 4.0.. I went to the Advanced auto and found the same bolt in a 3 pack. $2.97 and it tightened right up. It runs and works fine with no leaks. remember the bolt heads are 10 mm for the short and 11mm for the long bolts.... make sure you put a litle waterpump gasket sealer on the gasket to hold it in place ..it makes it much easier. I put on both sides......
Last edited by vandev; Sep 5, 2010 at 09:06 PM.
dont worry ...It's normal..... If you change the waterpump without completly draining the cooling system......like lazy me....when you remove the long bolts, they will weep coolent. Especially the bottom right long bolt. And yes they will have oil and crud on them... I too was worried and called my local LR guru and he said normal. The long bolts pass threw the timing cover and into the block. They are right on the edge of the cooling ports running to the water pump..hense the coolent leaking as now the timing cover gasket is a little decompressed. I just did my daughters this last week and ran into the same thing. i also had the bottom right short bolt that i could not re tighten. Had the same problem before with the same bolt on my RR 4.0.. I went to the Advanced auto and found the same bolt in a 3 pack. $2.97 and it tightened right up. It runs and works fine with no leaks. remember the bolt heads are 10 mm for the short and 11mm for the long bolts.... make sure you put a litle waterpump gassket sealer on the gasket to hold it in place ..it makes it much easier. I put on both sides......

I can understand a little oil and a little coolant.... but seeing that white crap on the bolt means it's mixing and that's what has me concerned. Remember that "Blue Devil" I mentioned??
Worse case I need a new block. I did find another motor for $850. Hopefully I won't need it, but I'm sure you know how these engines are......Eric
Well I put teflon tape on the long bolts just to be safe.
And yes vandev, the gasket sealer makes the job easier
Seems like it takes forever to get the air pockets out, but the new water pump and fan clutch definitely make a difference. I changed the tranny filter too. That looks like the only thing that was maintained as the pan was clean. Now I'm gonna drive it and watch the temp gauge and the fluid levels. Hopefully the oil level doesn't start going up
Eric
And yes vandev, the gasket sealer makes the job easier

Seems like it takes forever to get the air pockets out, but the new water pump and fan clutch definitely make a difference. I changed the tranny filter too. That looks like the only thing that was maintained as the pan was clean. Now I'm gonna drive it and watch the temp gauge and the fluid levels. Hopefully the oil level doesn't start going up

Eric
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