Just got my new rear ladder from AB.. WTF!!
#12
Thanks gents! I was hoping that someone went the Harbor Freight route... That's the plan. Not spending 70-90 bucks for a one time super obscure tool. TravAll will sell me one for $139.00.
Yeah big difference between rivets an RIVNUTS(blind nuts/ captured nuts). Way different application and intended use. They do make for. Clean install..
Harbor freight saves the day again with cheap one usectools!!!
Thanks again to those that read and responded
Thanks: lipadj46, dcarr1971, Antichrist, and rover_hokie!!
Yeah big difference between rivets an RIVNUTS(blind nuts/ captured nuts). Way different application and intended use. They do make for. Clean install..
Harbor freight saves the day again with cheap one usectools!!!
Thanks again to those that read and responded
Thanks: lipadj46, dcarr1971, Antichrist, and rover_hokie!!
#15
Thanks for the input spencerfitch, but sheet metal screws won't do.
I already have spent the time and effort, and have the required tool and hardware. Just looking to get the skinny from dcarr1971 since he opted to go the same route as I . Theres something scary about a 220 lb guy climbing a small ladder with gear and knowing it's only fastened by sheet metal screws....
It was engineered with Rivnuts for a very specific reason. To get me to buy another tool to crowd my toolbox!!!
I already have spent the time and effort, and have the required tool and hardware. Just looking to get the skinny from dcarr1971 since he opted to go the same route as I . Theres something scary about a 220 lb guy climbing a small ladder with gear and knowing it's only fastened by sheet metal screws....
It was engineered with Rivnuts for a very specific reason. To get me to buy another tool to crowd my toolbox!!!
#16
Actually they will. I installed my ladder with #12 (or #14) sheet metal screws years ago, I use it a lot and it's as solid as the day I installed it, which is rock solid.
Your weight is supported by the part that fits over the door lip, the screws are just to keep it in place.
Your weight is supported by the part that fits over the door lip, the screws are just to keep it in place.
#17
as i am in the fastener business all you need to use is a #12 or #14 machine screw with a phillips pan head. does not need to be a self tapper. it will penetrate the door metal.
or you can drill a pilot hole and then use a screw with a slightly larger thread to really lock it in place.
i use a dab of clear auto silicon to weatherproof the holes. done and done. and yes i have been up and down the ladder many times.
it will hold
or you can drill a pilot hole and then use a screw with a slightly larger thread to really lock it in place.
i use a dab of clear auto silicon to weatherproof the holes. done and done. and yes i have been up and down the ladder many times.
it will hold
#18
#19
Second, it depends on the application. That's like saying 16mm class 10.9 are the better install, since that's what's used on the radius arms.
The fasteners for the rear ladders support no weight at all, they are only to hold the ladder in place. If installed right 100% of the weight is taken by the lip on top of the door.
I've used rivnuts fairly often. Not often enough to buy the fancy tool, but enough to know where they should really be used and where they aren't really needed, like the rear ladder.
#20
First, they are sheet metal screws, not machine screws.
Second, it depends on the application. That's like saying 16mm class 10.9 are the better install, since that's what's used on the radius arms.
The fasteners for the rear ladders support no weight at all, they are only to hold the ladder in place. If installed right 100% of the weight is taken by the lip on top of the door.
I've used rivnuts fairly often. Not often enough to buy the fancy tool, but enough to know where they should really be used and where they aren't really needed, like the rear ladder.
Second, it depends on the application. That's like saying 16mm class 10.9 are the better install, since that's what's used on the radius arms.
The fasteners for the rear ladders support no weight at all, they are only to hold the ladder in place. If installed right 100% of the weight is taken by the lip on top of the door.
I've used rivnuts fairly often. Not often enough to buy the fancy tool, but enough to know where they should really be used and where they aren't really needed, like the rear ladder.
I'd like to see one of you sheet metal screw guys get your ladder caught on an obstacle and watch it tear right out.
And I wasn't saying to buy a fancy tool but rather to make one as it is very possible.