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I've repaired 2 D2 keys by replacing the little micro-switches. I was able to hold down the new micro-switch with a zip tie wrapped around the circuit board and another zip tie wrapped around the upper part (just above the button) of the zip tie with it's head aiming (tail cut off clean) down to put pressure onto my new switch enough for me to get one tab soldered on good enough to hold it into place.
The 8.00 kit I got from China was excellent quality and had a perfect copy (down to the p/n on the back & the LR logo on the front). You can not tell the difference between it it the one from the Dealer.
One of my circuit boards was a corrosion disaster but after cleaning it with contact cleaner and using a very soft toothbrush I was able to repair it, and use it. It doesn't have a lot of range on it, but I could care less as I only open the doors once I'm close to my vehicle anyways.
[QUOTE=zuke;604115]My key FOB would lock but not unlock. I pulled it apart and found one of the two micro-switches was broken. It is the rectangle in the lower center.
HINTS:
USE CARE IN SOLDERING ON PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS, USING AS LITTLE HEAT AS NEEDED (A LOW WATTAGE SOLDERING IRON IS NEEDED), TO GET THE JOB DONE, OR RISK DAMAGE TO THE BOARD FROM EXCESS HEAT. BEST DONE UNDER MAGNIFICATION, JUST HEAT ENOUGH TO REMOVE EACH LEG OF THE BAD SWITCH TO REMOVE IT, OR BETTER YET, CUT EACH LEG OFF THE OLD SWITCH TO REMOVE IT, AND JUST ENOUGH HEAT, NO MORE, TO SOLDER IN THE NEW ONE. IF YOU ADD ANY SOLDER, USE ONLY ROSIN CORE FINE WIRE SOLDER (RADIO SHACK TYPE IS GOOD), NEVER EVER USE ACID CORE, SOLDER OR YOUR BOARD WILL EVENTUALLY BE JUNK. BEFORE POWERING IT UP, LOOK THE BOARD OVER UNDER MAGNIFICATION, TO BE SURE YOU HAVE NO SOLDER WHERE IT SHOULDN'T BE, SHORTING SOLDER TRAILS. IF YOU ARE NOT GOOD AT DOING SUCH MINUTE CAREFUL PRECISION WORK, FIND SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT FOR YOU, OR YOU MAY BE SORRY-----