Killed two battries?
#1
Killed two battries?
Since I bought my series 2 I have gone through 2 batteries. I bought it may 26 2012. Not showning any signs of corrosion on the cables and it is showing no signs of dimming lights or anything to show the alternator is going bad. The 1 st battery went dead after about a week ago and the last battery I replaced yesterday and is now dead again!
Any thoughts or help would be great
Any thoughts or help would be great
#2
If you meter the battery across the terminals, with truck running at idle I would want to see 13.8 - 14.4 volts. When head lights and wipers and AC are switched on, I would expect that voltage to stay above 13.2. If it does not, your alternator could have a bad diode, and is producing volts, but not enough amps to keep up with demand and battery is not being fully charged. Most parts stores will test this for free.
You may have a stray drain. This will also cause great issues with the alarm, so until resolved were it my truck I would unplug the hood alarm switch. You can also use a small charger to charge up battery at night and at the office. Or disconnect cable from battery, but again be sure alarm switch is disconnected.
The normal method is to use an amp meter setting on your test meter, and insert that in series with one battery lead. Initial current will be higher, as things that run all the time (clock, radio memory, ECU, BCU, etc.) come back to normal "key off" mode. After about a minute, write down the current. Start unplugging fuses to look for large changes.
If no meter available, a tail lght bulb can be used instead. In series with battery, it won't glow with low current. Higher current will make it glow or light up. Will find big drains, not litle ones. There is always some drain, because electronics are plotting what code will be thrown at you next and the security for the crown jewels must be ever vigilant. In the US the security systems may not be watching the crown jewels, but they follow the American standard of always darn trouble with any dang thing all the damn time (unofficial motto of ADT).
You may have a stray drain. This will also cause great issues with the alarm, so until resolved were it my truck I would unplug the hood alarm switch. You can also use a small charger to charge up battery at night and at the office. Or disconnect cable from battery, but again be sure alarm switch is disconnected.
The normal method is to use an amp meter setting on your test meter, and insert that in series with one battery lead. Initial current will be higher, as things that run all the time (clock, radio memory, ECU, BCU, etc.) come back to normal "key off" mode. After about a minute, write down the current. Start unplugging fuses to look for large changes.
If no meter available, a tail lght bulb can be used instead. In series with battery, it won't glow with low current. Higher current will make it glow or light up. Will find big drains, not litle ones. There is always some drain, because electronics are plotting what code will be thrown at you next and the security for the crown jewels must be ever vigilant. In the US the security systems may not be watching the crown jewels, but they follow the American standard of always darn trouble with any dang thing all the damn time (unofficial motto of ADT).
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