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Knock Sensor - Replacement Part Question

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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #11  
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See attached page from Bosch tech manual. Basically, the ECU monitors the sensors for a voltage produced by the engine at all times. The ECU filters the signal looking for that knock signal ( a higher level), but it also wants to know that the "microphone" is still plugged in. If it is low the code in created, could indicate bad sensor, disconnected or shorted wire, corrosion on plug, etc.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #12  
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Thanks. For $30 (found the products you wrote about), it's worth replacing it. Should be an easy enough repair.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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Replaced the knock sensor and the code still came back. I'm going to get back under and re-check the connections, but what else could cause the code? Am I missing something?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #14  
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Could be a short (grounded) cable, which would make the voltage from the sensor low. Unplug sensor and see if code changes.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 10:37 PM
  #15  
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Someone at landroversonly dot com had that issue, and it was damaged wiring to the sensor.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Unplugged the sensor and no change. Wiring issue? On visual inspection, the wiring looks to be in great shape.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #17  
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Follow the link, find the right electrical dwg for your vehicle and check wiring continuity.

Good luck.

Franky

Land Rover Manuals
 
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:59 AM
  #18  
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Here's the drawing, you'll need to disconect sensor, (which you did, no change in code, so we know we are on the correct side of the engine) - and a plug on the ECU. You would be looking for any short at any ohm level between the black and the pink with stripe (black or white - depends on side). Also read both wires for any short to ground (frame of truck, don't stick meter lead in the dirt..lol).
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #19  
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Finally got around to dealing with this. Actually, I attempted NJ inspection (after clearing the code), but failed due to the pending code. Oh well. Now, I HAVE to repair it.

This brings me back to the thread. I have a multimeter, but am a complete novice. Savannah, I have a general understanding of your instruction, but let's back up on step. What settings should I have set on the multimeter? Also, at which points should I test the wiring? I'm assuming at the connection to the sensor and then back at the ECU in the passenger footwell. Correct?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #20  
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Have you actually tested the sensor to make sure it is working? I would be a little questionable about a $30 sensor when a Rover sensor is $90, I am wondering if this cheap one just isn't working with your ECU.
 
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