Leaking Rear Output Seal - Transfer Case
Hey All, after two years of dry, after adding White Shepherd, my DI 1999 Transfer Case Rear Output Seal has started to leak. It is leaking to the point that it is dripping off of the drum and then while spinning, it is throwing gear fluid on the bottom of the frame and floor pan. Question, is it possible to change the rear output seal without removing the transfer case? Can you just remove the rear prop-shaft and then remove the drum and then remove and replace the seal? Anybody done this before? Thanks in advance. Phil
DI 1999
DII 2001
DI 1999
DII 2001
yes, that is the directions to replace the thing, remove rear shaft, drum and the nut for the flange, pull the flange and yank the seal. but you have to put the seal back in correctly and torque down the nut correctly.
He has a great write-up for sealing the inspection plate on the transfer case but not the rear output seal. Does anyone know:
1. the size of the rear output seal retaining nut and
2. the proper torque setting for the retightening the retaining nut?
Thanks Phil
1999 DI
2001 DII
1. the size of the rear output seal retaining nut and
2. the proper torque setting for the retightening the retaining nut?
Thanks Phil
1999 DI
2001 DII
Browse his site closer he has a lot of good writeups:
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/rear_output_seal.html
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/rear_output_seal.html
What a great writeup! Thank you for the reference. I only looked at the stickys attached to this site. Saved me from jumping in without all of the necessary parts, ie fiber washer, new nut.........I am also worried that I will be in for a change of the parking brake shoes as well. Thanks again! Phil
As a follow up to the replacement of my 1999 DI transfer case rear output seal. The reference to Urban Panzer's site was incredibly helpful.
A couple of pointers if you are taking on this project. First, make sure that you have a 30 mm deep socket (I got mine at Kragen $14), you will also need a #4 Philips Head screwdriver for the brake drum retaining screw. I had 10 #2s and 3 #3s but I have never had nor have I ever used a #4 Philips before today. I finally found one at Sears $8, no luck at Kragen or Ace hardware. Have plenty of paper towels on hand, when you remove the old seal, the gear oil will start draining out, stuff a paper towel there and you are good to go. The old seal was a pain to get out, some gentle prying with a blunt screwdriver did the trick after about 10 minutes of trying. When setting the new seal I used a cap off of a spray can to gently set it into place, it fit great. Use the flange to push it in all of the way. I used a small block of wood and a rubber mallet to get it all the way in.
My flange had some small groves from rubbing on the seal for 103k miles. Had I had a quick source, I probably would have replaced it. AB has a flange, nylock nut, fiber washer, metal washer and seal for about $55. Land Rover Miramar wanted $150 for the same kit. I bought the seal, fiber washer and nulock nut at the dealer for $38, after a $10 discount. Not bad for getting it today. Plan ahead and save some coin. The Mobil 1 gear lube, synthetic was $8/quart
My old seal had disinegrated, I took it out in three pieces. The White Shepherd worked well but it will not patch a hole in the Titanic........Be sure to have a couple of 14mm wrenches and an assortment of 14mm sockets on hand to remove the rear propshaft. I ended up taking the propshaft off entirely, as I couldn't get the shaft to compress enough to remove the transfer case side of the propshaft.
Without including the detour to Kragen, Ace and finally Sears, the job took about 2 hours. I did not need to replace the parking brake assembly, it was wet but cleaned up nicely. Not nearly as wet as the photos in Urban Panzer's site. I used a small pump to put the new gear lube in, what a valuable tool, no drips, drops or mess.
Thanks again to those that chimed in on this project, to Urban Panzer and his site and to this awesome site!
Phil
D1 1999
DII 2001
A couple of pointers if you are taking on this project. First, make sure that you have a 30 mm deep socket (I got mine at Kragen $14), you will also need a #4 Philips Head screwdriver for the brake drum retaining screw. I had 10 #2s and 3 #3s but I have never had nor have I ever used a #4 Philips before today. I finally found one at Sears $8, no luck at Kragen or Ace hardware. Have plenty of paper towels on hand, when you remove the old seal, the gear oil will start draining out, stuff a paper towel there and you are good to go. The old seal was a pain to get out, some gentle prying with a blunt screwdriver did the trick after about 10 minutes of trying. When setting the new seal I used a cap off of a spray can to gently set it into place, it fit great. Use the flange to push it in all of the way. I used a small block of wood and a rubber mallet to get it all the way in.
My flange had some small groves from rubbing on the seal for 103k miles. Had I had a quick source, I probably would have replaced it. AB has a flange, nylock nut, fiber washer, metal washer and seal for about $55. Land Rover Miramar wanted $150 for the same kit. I bought the seal, fiber washer and nulock nut at the dealer for $38, after a $10 discount. Not bad for getting it today. Plan ahead and save some coin. The Mobil 1 gear lube, synthetic was $8/quart
My old seal had disinegrated, I took it out in three pieces. The White Shepherd worked well but it will not patch a hole in the Titanic........Be sure to have a couple of 14mm wrenches and an assortment of 14mm sockets on hand to remove the rear propshaft. I ended up taking the propshaft off entirely, as I couldn't get the shaft to compress enough to remove the transfer case side of the propshaft.
Without including the detour to Kragen, Ace and finally Sears, the job took about 2 hours. I did not need to replace the parking brake assembly, it was wet but cleaned up nicely. Not nearly as wet as the photos in Urban Panzer's site. I used a small pump to put the new gear lube in, what a valuable tool, no drips, drops or mess.
Thanks again to those that chimed in on this project, to Urban Panzer and his site and to this awesome site!
Phil
D1 1999
DII 2001
Well that will frost you! So much for my work on Saturday. The Newly-Replaced rear output seal is leaking. Not sure what went wrong. I wonder if the grooves that have developed on the flange are contributing to the leak. I may order the flange kit from AB and replace it. With all of the work required to get to the seal, I don't want to do it again. Any ideas on what may be causing the leak? I replaced the fiber washer, the metal washer, the nylock nut and torqued it to 109 lbs. as called for. Leaking in So Cal. Phil
1999 DI
2001 DII
1999 DI
2001 DII
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