Looking for Tach Wire
I am trying to install a remote starter (2001 Disco)... Now I know how everyone feel about theses and I doubt if I will every use it. But if I'm going to install it, might as well do it right. I was looking for a cheap way to unlock the doors with a keyfob cheaper than the $400 the dealer wanted. Anyway... I am looking for a wire to get a tach signal from. I have looked under the pass. side of the dash and I see three computers (engine, transmission, body) but don't know which is which.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
No tach wire. The ECU computes the rpm from the engine sensors and sends a digital signal to operate the tach. On the Disco 1, there is an analog tach signal from the alternator that varies in frequency and is used to drive the tach.
Before picking up the wire cutters, please download the RAVE which has complete electrical drawings, in color, with wires, pin outs of connectors, what is one each terminal of the ECU, BCU (alarm), etc. Also locations of connectors.
And the purpose of the tach lead for the remote start is to tell the system it has indeed started?
Before picking up the wire cutters, please download the RAVE which has complete electrical drawings, in color, with wires, pin outs of connectors, what is one each terminal of the ECU, BCU (alarm), etc. Also locations of connectors.
And the purpose of the tach lead for the remote start is to tell the system it has indeed started?
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Apr 10, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
The BCU says valeo on it, it's plastic. The SLABS says wabco on it, also plastic I think. The ECM is mounted to the far right, is metal and says Bosch on it, but you probably cannot read it.
Thanks Guys... Yes I Remember seeing the metal ecm with the words Bosch on it. And Yes... From the install instructions, it needs the tach to figure out if the engine is running vs cranking. It also suggust tapping into a injector wire, which I did not want to do. I hate to have a brunch of wires un-attached but I think I will probably just hook up enough to get the doors to lock and unlock. Although when I was testing the connections so far, the door will lock but not unlock. So much for this being a easy project. lol...
It would be a lot easier with the RAVE electrical diagrams....
Since it wants to see a voltage that changes frequency and is zero when engine off, what about the Crank Position Sensor lead? Of course, you might also introduce misfires from lack of shielding,. etc.
Since it wants to see a voltage that changes frequency and is zero when engine off, what about the Crank Position Sensor lead? Of course, you might also introduce misfires from lack of shielding,. etc.
how do you know its not the door latch motor itself? chances are they are bad and causing the issues. the dealer quoted you the fob cause you asked for an off the shelf diagnosis. if you want real diagnosis you have to go out and learn the vehicle or pay someone who knows what they are doing.
of course if you bought the starter kit its most likely you have no idea how to diagnose anything at all. but you are good with parts. Get your shotgun out cause when you are done you wont have anything running right.
of course if you bought the starter kit its most likely you have no idea how to diagnose anything at all. but you are good with parts. Get your shotgun out cause when you are done you wont have anything running right.
Rovin4Life - When I use the key, all the doors lock and unlock. When I use the central locking button, all the doors lock and unlock - So i'm pretty sure that the only reason the doors will not lock and unlock with the key fob is the fact that I don't have a key fob. When I looked on ebay - I only seen replacement shells, not the entire key fob. Today I looked and I see a lot of 5 with "Range Rover" on the side of them. 5 OEM Land Rover Key Remote Fob OEM Lot | eBay
Hate to buy something that don't work. That's why when I found the remote starter with door entry ($35) I thought this is a no brainer. Plus I installed on a few years back on my D1 for the same reason. But I will admit, it was simple and straight forward.
Hate to buy something that don't work. That's why when I found the remote starter with door entry ($35) I thought this is a no brainer. Plus I installed on a few years back on my D1 for the same reason. But I will admit, it was simple and straight forward.
I did not want to pay crazy money for a fob so I went the same way with the electric start rather than paying for a fob, all i wanted was to lock and unlock i wasnt trying to start it.
but I remember have a problem and had to have a friend add a diode to the remote starter system.
Something about stopping the current from flowing backward, if my memory serves me correctly it would only do one function, lock or unlock not both.
but I remember have a problem and had to have a friend add a diode to the remote starter system.
Something about stopping the current from flowing backward, if my memory serves me correctly it would only do one function, lock or unlock not both.
Any good remote car starter should have some form of valet mode. This is a condition that the remote car starter motor can be put into to prevent the vehicle from starting remotely while allowing keyless entry and certain other functions to work. You would do this when having service done to the vehicle. Most of our remote starters are put into valet mode by pressing a combination of 2 buttons on the remote control for 1/2 second. Look on the back of your remote for the proper buttons to press to enter and exit valet mode (Usually Lock+Trunk).
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