Lucky 8 propshaft vibration.
#11
I would accept it if it was improperly balanced from the factory and he tried to correct it. That is on us, not him. We stand behind everything we sell.
#12
We appreciate the kind words. I know we sometimes take a little longer to get stuff out, but we are a small operation of enthusiasts and we do our best.
It really isn't trouble at all. It is a pretty quick and painless job if you know how to turn a wrench. I highly recommend doing it. Once it is done, you will never have to worry about replacing another rotoflex, and with that comes peace of mind.
It really isn't trouble at all. It is a pretty quick and painless job if you know how to turn a wrench. I highly recommend doing it. Once it is done, you will never have to worry about replacing another rotoflex, and with that comes peace of mind.
A friend of mine had his rotoflex replaced at a local shop and they said they had to make a tool to remove [something]. He doesn't remember. I suspect it was some kind of puller because even though they are a 4x4 driveshaft shop, they get a confused look whenever you drive up in an import. They said they had to weld something to a pair of vice grips. Sounded fishy.
#13
Wow! And super responsive to boot!
A friend of mine had his rotoflex replaced at a local shop and they said they had to make a tool to remove [something]. He doesn't remember. I suspect it was some kind of puller because even though they are a 4x4 driveshaft shop, they get a confused look whenever you drive up in an import. They said they had to weld something to a pair of vice grips. Sounded fishy.
A friend of mine had his rotoflex replaced at a local shop and they said they had to make a tool to remove [something]. He doesn't remember. I suspect it was some kind of puller because even though they are a 4x4 driveshaft shop, they get a confused look whenever you drive up in an import. They said they had to weld something to a pair of vice grips. Sounded fishy.
#14
Thread hijack over. Sorry!
#15
He might be referring to the special tool you "need" to convert from roto to u-joint. Which is essentially flat stock with two holes in it.
#16
Well I retract what I said about Lucky8. I spoke to Erik and I now understand why shipping might take a little longer sometimes. Further, he completely fixed me up with some parts that I need for by engine (various bearings), making sure I would have them right on time and helping me understand what the engine shop was telling me.
#17
Wow. Lot of responses.
Quick run through:
Front Propshaft, replacing because it was original and I like my transmission hole free.
No vibration before hand.
The package was clean, looked immaculate.
"Random Shop", means I was back in my hometown and used my father's old mechanic from before he went soft and switched to new cars and dealer shops. Seemed entirely competent.
About $85(cnd) to swap. They thought it would take 15 min and took 45, so I think things were seized (which made me feel better, I couldn't get them off and using the shop was me wussing out).
And again, thanks to the Lucky8 guys. I know you stand behind things. Unfortunately that Canadian shipping is such a bastard (and I got dinged by customs). Starting to think a three hour drive down to you is worth doing now and then.
There's also a chance it's all in my head. I've got an hour drive tonight and I'll probably be driving my passengers mad with a lot of "there — do you hear it now?".
Thanks again.
Quick run through:
Front Propshaft, replacing because it was original and I like my transmission hole free.
No vibration before hand.
The package was clean, looked immaculate.
"Random Shop", means I was back in my hometown and used my father's old mechanic from before he went soft and switched to new cars and dealer shops. Seemed entirely competent.
About $85(cnd) to swap. They thought it would take 15 min and took 45, so I think things were seized (which made me feel better, I couldn't get them off and using the shop was me wussing out).
And again, thanks to the Lucky8 guys. I know you stand behind things. Unfortunately that Canadian shipping is such a bastard (and I got dinged by customs). Starting to think a three hour drive down to you is worth doing now and then.
There's also a chance it's all in my head. I've got an hour drive tonight and I'll probably be driving my passengers mad with a lot of "there — do you hear it now?".
Thanks again.
#18
Since everyone is focused on rear driveshafts could anyone tell me whether the rotoflex to ujoint conversion is worth the trouble? Or is it better to just have a spare rotoflex? My rotoflex is 15 years old and i'm contemplating my first ever trail run (kiamichi trail in oklahoma) and being stranded is not in my playbook.
The only trouble people sometimes have is removing the centralizing pin from the diff which is installed with loctite that requires heat to break the bond, then a puller to remove it.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/47742463/...Flange-Removal
Let me know if that isn't readable. For some reason it looks like crap in Firefox, but is fine in Chrome.
The following users liked this post:
Charlie_V (08-14-2015)
#19
i did not meen you specify no one has to take something back after it been modified pretty much industry standard.
#20
It's a rotating mass, you can feel vibration at any time if it's out of balance.
At 15 years i'd definitely carry a spare, replace it before you leave, or convert to a cardan type u-joint propshaft. I did the conversion soon as I bought my Disco, I didn't like the large piece of rubber hanging down to impact things.
The only trouble people sometimes have is removing the centralizing pin from the diff which is installed with loctite that requires heat to break the bond, then a puller to remove it.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/47742463/...Flange-Removal
Let me know if that isn't readable. For some reason it looks like crap in Firefox, but is fine in Chrome.
At 15 years i'd definitely carry a spare, replace it before you leave, or convert to a cardan type u-joint propshaft. I did the conversion soon as I bought my Disco, I didn't like the large piece of rubber hanging down to impact things.
The only trouble people sometimes have is removing the centralizing pin from the diff which is installed with loctite that requires heat to break the bond, then a puller to remove it.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/47742463/...Flange-Removal
Let me know if that isn't readable. For some reason it looks like crap in Firefox, but is fine in Chrome.