I heard an odd faint tick at very slow speeds yesterday. Only with movement. Going to double check drive shaft. But today I have flashing M and S. Limp mode. Flashing D on shifter.

Drove for a mile, restart all is fine.

Is this usually CPS? Can't search forum very well from my phone. Is the part typically available from AutoZone or AAP?

Checked engine codes. Have a pending P0563 which seems to be voltage related somehow. Odd as have not had any code for a long time.

Any links or advice very welcome.

 

not a cksp switch.

check your charging system, alternator, battery and grounds must have 13.5 volts or better.

An wxyz switch will also cause this problem but they are several hundred bucks, so i would start with the cheap stuff first

 

Thanks. Electrical is tying in with a couple of other things.

The code i mentioned.
My UG reads 13.9-14.0 on tickover. Although oddly the UG has been resetting everytime I start the car. It usually doesn't reboot like that. Last time it did that was a bad ground.
Red led flashing rapid on dash. Although I thought that indicated remote battery status?

I'll go over the grounds and see if the M and S repeat.

 

I know this post is old but I wanted to add my experience for people to find when they search for lights flicker, M and S flash, no start, bad low battery, key fob doesn't work, limp mode, bad alternator, etc...

My friend's 2000 Disco couldn't open the doors from the key fob remote and with no power at all on dash lights or for ignition when trying to start. What was really weird was that the only way to start it was to turn the lights all the way on and then the dash lights would light up for him to start it. When it finally started and when he drove off, it automatically went into limp mode with the flashing M and S and the D, and kept getting the code P0563 for system high voltage (alternator randomly showed output of 14.9VDC).
I found his power cables for the alternator and starter were barely hanging on by 5-8 wire strands in the positive terminals on the battery.
We cut off an inch of the positive cables for a clean connection, hydraulically crimped on new terminals, and added heat shrink tubing. Tightened the positive battery post connection and now everything works great again with 14.1VDC average from the alternator and the battery is at 12.7VDC.