MAF/O2/Crank/AIR short?
#1
MAF/O2/Crank/AIR short?
So all the codes are back... I've checked the wiring and connects best I could at the MAF to the main harness, and the connectors on the O2's but the problem must be somewhere in the main harness, at the ECU or if someone can tell me here, at either fuse/relay box?
i cleaned and resecured all the grounds that i could easily find, but there is almost not dirt, rust or loose bolts in the entire engine bay. the o2 cables are pretty oily, but i cleaned the harness, which werent even that dirty.
troubles me is that they are all faulty, leads me to believe that whereever the all meet up in the harness they might be fraid on each other or to the chassis. i cant follow the MAF wiries though completely, as they apparently travel UNDER the intake manifold to the back?? then on the back of the motor that are two main imputs the the main line to the ECU.
also, if someone could tell me WHICH plugs on the ECU all these components go to, perhaps just removing/replugging them in might fix the connection problems... either way id still like to know. RAVE is useless to me for electric lines, i need an actual map diagram and pictures, not harness and connector ground point id numbers on 5 different pages etc.
i cleaned and resecured all the grounds that i could easily find, but there is almost not dirt, rust or loose bolts in the entire engine bay. the o2 cables are pretty oily, but i cleaned the harness, which werent even that dirty.
troubles me is that they are all faulty, leads me to believe that whereever the all meet up in the harness they might be fraid on each other or to the chassis. i cant follow the MAF wiries though completely, as they apparently travel UNDER the intake manifold to the back?? then on the back of the motor that are two main imputs the the main line to the ECU.
also, if someone could tell me WHICH plugs on the ECU all these components go to, perhaps just removing/replugging them in might fix the connection problems... either way id still like to know. RAVE is useless to me for electric lines, i need an actual map diagram and pictures, not harness and connector ground point id numbers on 5 different pages etc.
#2
#3
Land Rover Manuals
Get the Discovery II Electrical diagrams and the electrical circuits PDF. They have all of the information required for this.
#4
have em. those diagrams are all line maps, i ment actual pictures from a camera type of the wiring locations and paths if possible so i can reference off of engine hardparts etc. i cant tell from that type of material where the 6 wires travel from the maf to under the front of the motor into a loom with 3 other sensors then under the intake manifold like you could gather from a picture... just on the other end.
or obviously if someones had this problem before, where a good place to look would be other then the fuses, relays, and plugs going into the actual sensors themselves.
or obviously if someones had this problem before, where a good place to look would be other then the fuses, relays, and plugs going into the actual sensors themselves.
Last edited by grandkodiak; 04-04-2011 at 08:26 PM.
#5
From you LAST thread asking for pictures, I've labeled the ISV and MAF plugs. The harness is not difficult at all to see underneath the upper intake manifold, so I have to wonder if you have proper lighting, aren't getting in there, not removing simple things that might be in the way, etc.
Have you even pulled the rubber grommet that goes through the firewall that I took a picture of and pointed out in your last thread? If you really think that there are a lot of wires "fraid" in the main harness, that's where you ought to be looking. The line diagrams are how you figure out what wire at which pin location on the plugs inside goes to what pin location on what plug in the engine compartment. You do simple continuity test while moving the harness around to see if it changes the continuity or grounds out. Basic troubleshooting. But you need to get in there and do it, and read the diagrams to know what to test. No one is going to walk you though that over the internet. The information is right in front of you in the books.
#6
i wasnt looking for the maf wiring from the rear shot, just the main harness line. ok so it does go stright back under the manifold to the first t-junction part.
anyway, updates.
i replaced fuse #2 and the next morning when i stared it up, everything was near perfect. MAF data and O2 data was streaming in running fine. then i hear a electric motor whine up sound like a small vacuum cleaner go for about 30 seconds, then immediatly shut off, at which point the MAF data goes to 0 and the o2's go back to .445 constant. and what do you know, fuse 2 is popped agian. this is the first time ive heard the noise though, i assume an air pump? it was rather loud, but ive never heard it before, nor have i ever heard one on another car.
i tried to put another fuse in to see if i could confirm the noise from the air pump while its running but now as soon as you key the ignition the fuse pops immediatly. i even unplugged the air pump and tried again and it still pops as soon as the key is in and turned over a click. i see that it also lists a pump relay, if that was stuck, would that cause it to stay on and pull that much constant current? there is a relay right next to it listed as AUX, is that a spare that I can swap, or is AUX somethin else.
also, noticed 2 more things, a vac line not connected to the bottom of what i circled in red, just 6 inches infront of the air pump... and the metal hard lines from the air pump that cross the back of the motor over the coil pack is not connected to anything, although at its center there are 2 holes drilled into what looks like a mounting plate.
anyway, updates.
i replaced fuse #2 and the next morning when i stared it up, everything was near perfect. MAF data and O2 data was streaming in running fine. then i hear a electric motor whine up sound like a small vacuum cleaner go for about 30 seconds, then immediatly shut off, at which point the MAF data goes to 0 and the o2's go back to .445 constant. and what do you know, fuse 2 is popped agian. this is the first time ive heard the noise though, i assume an air pump? it was rather loud, but ive never heard it before, nor have i ever heard one on another car.
i tried to put another fuse in to see if i could confirm the noise from the air pump while its running but now as soon as you key the ignition the fuse pops immediatly. i even unplugged the air pump and tried again and it still pops as soon as the key is in and turned over a click. i see that it also lists a pump relay, if that was stuck, would that cause it to stay on and pull that much constant current? there is a relay right next to it listed as AUX, is that a spare that I can swap, or is AUX somethin else.
also, noticed 2 more things, a vac line not connected to the bottom of what i circled in red, just 6 inches infront of the air pump... and the metal hard lines from the air pump that cross the back of the motor over the coil pack is not connected to anything, although at its center there are 2 holes drilled into what looks like a mounting plate.
#7
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