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Can’t get it to repeat the stall in D with the emergency brake on and wiggling the MAF connector. Inspecting the connector, it seems ok. I believe each is a separate pin. I don’t think I could have fouled them.
I tightened up the upper intake while out there as well.
I took off the Idle air control valve, and gave it a cleaning. Found a lot of corrosion around the hoses where they attach. I am going to refresh those and the clips. Still cannot get it to stall, drove around the block, the idle seemed a bit higher at first, but seemed to return to how it was. 640ish to 680.
None. It is what is really frustrating. It’s intermittent, and I have not been able to replicate it at home.
Well, I would happily eat lunch off your engine. Beautiful. Intermittent means electronic, in my book. Electronic has always been MAF for me. But I also got codes...
Well, I would happily eat lunch off your engine. Beautiful. Intermittent means electronic, in my book. Electronic has always been MAF for me. But I also got codes...
Thanks Charlie. Two MAFS now have had the issue, so I lean towards the connector. It honestly seem like maybe the female ends are too wide for the male ends at the plug.
I will make sure I am getting spark with the inline spark tester if I can get it to non-start.
also, will swap the fuel relay if there is spark.
The TPS can cause this issue but it has also happened with two different TPS.
the CPS is Standard Motor Products, and TPS is Duralast. Maybe I need Bosch?
I am researching the Engine Management system this morning. Just came across the "Thermostat Monitoring Sensor", that would have been nice of them to put on our vehicles. May be worth some research to install and get turned on in the ECM. It does exist.
If anyone is following this and worked on their IACV can you tell me if the mechanism inside should move around? I cleaned it out with Throttle Body Cleaner and I could feel and hear it moving. The RAVE says it should not be mechanically moved.
If anyone is following this and worked on their IACV can you tell me if the mechanism inside should move around? I cleaned it out with Throttle Body Cleaner and I could feel and hear it moving. The RAVE says it should not be mechanically moved.
I have not taken mine apart, and it works properly.
I have removed it a couple times when disassembling my engine, and it makes no noise, and I could not feel anything moving inside of it, which is how it should be.
If yours is making noise, I would think it has broken, and could be the cause of your come and go problem.
Should be a $2 junkyard part, so worth replacing as a process of elimination.
I hate chasing problems that show up and stop randomly.
