I'll be calling the machine shop today. I'll report back

 

Talked with the shop today. Block checks out at 80psi, no leaks and is straight.
Crank has two jounals that need addressed, looks like undersized bearings are needed.
Top hat sleeves are (to my machinist) only available from Turner Industries (UK based??) and to do just the sleeves I'm looking at $2K just in the block. Um no thanks.
Change of plan!
Pin the current sleeves, deck the block to remove some of the chamfer of the sleeves (& make up for the lost compression ratio due to the composite HG), touch up the valves & seats, grind and polish the crank for .010 undersized bearings and I'll assemble the heads and the rest.
Oh, also machine the Crower 50229 cam's nose, drill and tap, and reposition the key way & install cam bearings
Gah....
Undersized bearings source? D&D is the only one I've found. Looks like a Buick option ??

 

The bearings always confused me, with the under/over sized stuff. Anyways, this it?


Main Bearing Set .10 Over 4.0/4.6 (Part # STC429910) - Land Rover block from Atlantic British

 

go on eBay Miami Rover just had a set of 10 under Federal Mogul bearing for like $100.00

 

Thanks, found them also at fcpeuro.com
0.010" oversized (both rod and crank)
STC142610 $66.95
STC429910 $57.95

Ordered both shipped to the door $131.05

 

Also, talked with the machine shop again this morning, they're going to deck the block to get the sleeves flush to the top or even remove the chamfer (if possible).
I also will be pinning the sleeves myself (read that great write up, well within my skill set and experience.)

Ordered Cometic 0.040" (mls) head gaskets to seal it up right.

 

You plan to "deck the block to remove some of the chamfer of the sleeves (& make up for the lost compression ratio due to the composite HG),"
________________________
This doesn't sound right to me? Why do you believe that you need to remove some of the chamfer of the sleeves---Rover chamfered them this way in the beginning, so why change it? Anyway, decking the block reduces the distance from top of block (bottom of head) to top of pistons, which increases compression ratio; not lowering it. When decking the block, you have to increase the head gasket thickness, over the original composite head gasket thickness to get original compression ration.

You: "Ordered Cometic 0.040" (mls) head gaskets to seal it up right." What thickness are the original Rover composite head gaskets, compared to your ordered .040" thick Cometic ones?

 

As many know, the chamfer at the top prevents the liner from sealing against the head & head gasket. It was just one of the many terrible designs in the motors. This allows two things to happen (both simultaneously sometimes) the chamfer doesn't extend high enough to be sealed by the crushed head gasket and then doesn't put pressure on the sleeve. This can allow the sleeve to move which then can act like a hole punch to the head gasket resulting in head gasket failure. Also because of this non-seal, combustion pressure/heat can leak down past the chamfer into the water jacket (think steaming the milk of a cappuccino) which leads to near instantaneous overheat situation. This can be recognized by symptoms like, blowing hoses, reservoirs, radiators etc -all the weaker points in the cooling system. Typically the 15psi that the cap retains on the system should vent (which will appear like an overheat) but my theory is it can only vent so much and therefor that pressure builds up to vent elsewhere.

Yes, I'm aware that decking the block raises the compression ratio, I haven't figured out how much needs removed or how much that changes the ratio. Higher is ok with me, it already require premium, might as well get the power from it. (I know someone will point out that lower octane fuel contains more power -to which I'll say, yes, but due to no EGR (which lowers combustion temps by diluting the fuel/air mix in the cylinder), higher fuel octane is needed to control pre-detonation. Which results in a better burn and thus more power blah blah blah.
Either way, I'm by no means an expert, just doing a lot of reading, studying, and researching and since I'm not doing flanged liners, I want to do the next best thing to make this motor last as long as possible.
My Audi's have lasted way past 200k miles before needing anything beyond routine preventative maintenance. Due to excellent engine design IMO, so doing head gaskets on a Rover every 60k isn't "routine maint", it's a design flaw.
When the cometic MLS gaskets arrive, I'll compare them to the used and new composite gaskets and report back.
I've only used MLS head gaskets on all the high power turbo Audis I've built in the past due to their better sealing capabilities.

 

"My Audi's have lasted way past 200k miles before needing anything beyond routine preventative maintenance. Due to excellent engine design IMO, so doing head gaskets on a Rover every 60k isn't "routine maint", it's a design flaw."

In my experience, Audi are the world experts in design flaws.

My landlord just bought a 2005 A8 - the oil cooler is leaking coolant, and he's facing a $5000 bill to fix it - it's behind the engine (!) and the engine has to be removed to access it.

I had a 2000 A6 2.7T that was easily the most unreliable car I've ever known - and I've had Jaguars. Control arms, water pump, timing belt, ignition module, turbos, wiring faults, ABS controller, warping brake discs, window motors, seat heaters, steering rack, dying MFD, you name it. I know a guy who needed a new engine in his A6 because a drain blocked, filled the scuttle with rainwater, it was sucked into the inlet manifold via the brake reservoir, destroying the engine.

 

Yes, I've know of a few owners who've had those similar issues, but routine maint would have identified many issues prior to major breakdown. Yes, some models are plagued with "common" problems that seem to plague those chassis designs.
The forums of Quattroworld.com are an excellent resource (similar to this).
I think this thread has gotten off topic? Sorry if that's my fault.
I guess the point I'm trying to make, is that if the faults of a make/model/design are identified and addressed wisely, then dependability and reliability can be had with the proper technique and procedure.