Holy potatoes. They want $140 just to hot tank my block. Uhhh no.

This brings up a good question. Is there a way for me to test my block, when the time comes, to see if it needs decked or not? I of course want to make sure my new head gasket kit is going back on a true flat block deck. The same machine shop wants nearly $200 just to deck it. I'd rather not dish that out.

 

You: "This brings up a good question. Is there a way for me to test my block, when the time comes, to see if it needs decked or not? I of course want to make sure my new head gasket kit is going back on a true flat block deck. The same machine shop wants nearly $200 just to deck it. I'd rather not dish that out."
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No, no, no. The only time you deck the block, is when you install new liners, such as top hat liners, so the liners are flush, even, with the top of block, or you might deck it for other unusual circumstances. You never deck it just to make it level again; 99% of time it will never warp, whatever, so it is most always flat and flush. A machine shop can quickly check it for flatness---they have a true flat surface on a metal stick that looks like a yard stick, and they hold that from corner to corner on your block, while trying to sneak shim stock beneath the surface stick they use, and the top of block, to see if it is dead flush---usually it is. However, same thing can't be said for the heads! Aluminum heads are notorious for warping from overheating. Machine shop tests them same way as explained above; if warped, they machine then dead flat again, within a certain tolerance. If heads are warped beyond this tolerance, they are scrapped; you need replacement head(s). Don't worry so much about the flat surface of the block, but do worry about the true flat surface of the heads. The heads must seal the gaskets between them and the block top surface; it is the heads that are most likely to warp and not be dead flat. Heads should receive valve grind, cleaning, close checking of valve guides; if worn, replaced, checking of valve springs, to be sure none of them have become weaker springs than they need to be-it happens--new valve stem oil seals--all done by machine shop.

 

Thanks. That's very helpful.

Once the bottom end is done, I'll be sending the heads in for a full rebuild and have any issues replaced.

I got the blocked stripped today. Ready to go to the shop and get hot tanked this next week. Then I can start ordering parts for the rebuild depending on what direction the block goes.

 

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Why don't you save wasted funds you would be spending on having block hot tanked, by simply borrowing/renting a steam cleaner, and steam clean it yourself, or clean it at car wash, by using hot water, after spraying it well with degreaser engine cleaner. When done, dry off all steel parts of block well with paper towels or rags, so no rust forms from water sitting on the steel?

 

Right now everything is on hold. I may have a chance to get a get, low mileage, 4.0 block and roll up this rebuild with something I don't need to repair or modify.

Waiting for the moment. IF this works out, all I'll need to do is scrub out the oil pan.

 

Just to clarify, you're planning to put the 4.6 pistons, crank and rods in the 4.0 block? From what I can gather, there is a noticeable difference in performance between a 4.0 and a 4.6. I see plenty of posts about how slow these trucks are but with my relatively fresh (40k) 4.6 I'm plenty satisfied with the truck's power even turning 32 inch tires with stock gears.

 

Oh yeah, I'll be putting the 4.6 gear in it. I do not want to downgrade to the 4.0 displacement wise at all.

I just want the good block.

 

Well, block fell through.

This weekend I'll be pulling the liners, and I'm going to go ahead and try to clean and degrease the block at home with the power washer. Save some more $$.

Then I have a few things in mind.

 

No, no, no. The only time you deck the block, is when you install new liners, such as top hat liners, so the liners are flush, even, with the top of block

wrong wrong wrong

 

Before you pull all of the liners, think about just what that entails. The original liners were pressed into machined bores then machined flush with the deck. Pulling them out with the hopes of reinstalling them tighter doesn't make sense to me. I would pull the one that has the leak behind it, get the block welded, machine that bore, and reinstall that liner. Pin all of the liners to keep them in place as best as you can then put the engine back together. If the liners haven't moved, then they aren't going to move unless you get the engine super hot again. Just keep it full of coolant, use a 180 degree t-stat and you should be good.