I would have to agree. If you're thinking of pulling all the liners you may as well spend the extra $$ to have the block machined for top hat liners at that point. If not, I too would leave all the in-tact liners... in-tact.

 

Anyone come up with a good temperature that these liners come out at? I got a laser temp reader so I don't push it past what it needs.

I hear conflicting reports of what it takes to pull a liner out.

 

04duxir: "Before you pull all of the liners, think about just what that entails. The original liners were pressed into machined bores then machined flush with the deck. Pulling them out with the hopes of reinstalling them tighter doesn't make sense to me. I would pull the one that has the leak behind it, get the block welded, machine that bore, and reinstall that liner. Pin all of the liners to keep them in place as best as you can then put the engine back together. If the liners haven't moved, then they aren't going to move unless you get the engine super hot again. Just keep it full of coolant, use a 180 degree t-stat and you should be good."
___________________
This is all sound reasoning; worthy of consideration

 

Good block on the way. 73k miles from a 04 Disco II. Professionally inspected.

Cost me $100. Should be here in a few days.

So, onto the next step. Rebuilding the bottom end when it gets here.

First thing. Crank is in perfect condition. All the other odds and ends are flawless. I plan to reuse as much as I can. Cam, lifters, push rods, crank, rods, pistons, etc. All rings, gaskets, bearings, etc will be new.

So, two things. How do I measure if I need std, or oversize bearings for the crank and rods? Any recommendations on things to consider on the bottom end?

 

you need to measure the main and rod bearing surfaces if you don't have to micrometer pasticguage will give you an idea. but i would still have them measured and polished.

 

I have a micrometer. I just need to know where to look for the numbers that tell me "if it's this, then order this".

 

all the number are in the rave but i have to caution you about putting new bearing on old crank surface, it no different than putting a nrw cam shaft and old cam bearing.

but according to our new resident machinist just like surfacing block, cam bearing rarely need replacing. HAAAAAAAAAA

 

Found the numbers for the crank bearing measurements in the RAVE. Simple and easy to understand. I like that.

Well I now have the block. I wont be able to get it up on the stand until this weekend, but a quick inspection looked good. Sleeves are flush and look great. Whoever had it before didn't do as many oil changes as the original engine from the Rover I bought. Block may have been cracked, but whoever owned it took great care of it.

I'll get it up on the stand, get it back to sparkling clean, then run a full pressure test and inspection. Then it's measuring up the crank, find out what parts to start to order, and start cleaning up the parts that are going to go back in.

This weekend ends the destruction phase and begins the rebuild phase. OH yay, I do say.

That and now that it's starting to creep towards the 50's outside, I may get out there and pressure wash the engine bay.

 

Got the new block cleaned up and pressure tested.

ALL GOOD. Block is solid and in great condition. No visual issues and pressure test yielded no leaks.

So, on the the crankshaft to measure for bearings. The crank bearings all measured out within STD bearing recommendations but the connecting rods are right in between standard and .01 oversize.

All measured 2.185". So that puts it right between.

Any opinions on if that is good enough to just go for a STD set, or should I up to the .010 bearings?

Next week I'll be turning in the heads and ordering all the new parts for the bottom end rebuild.

 

Forgot to update for a while.

Well I pinned all the liners. Easier than I thought. Drill. Tap. Had to grind down each bolt to size, which was the only real time consuming part. The walls on the part of the block are pretty thin. Drill goes through the liner nize and clean.

Looks good.

All the parts for the bottom end came in from Turner. FAST. Sad how $40 can get me a big box from the UK here in 2 days, but I can't get a box the size of an iPhone from Cali for the same price in a week.

I dropped the crank off at the machine shop and we decided to grind all down to fit .010 bearings. I'll be picking it back up today.

So, this weekend the whole bottom end goes back together. Heads go to the shop next week. So I should have the long block all back up in the next 3 weeks and then back into the car.