Hi Guys,
I purchased a 2000 Discovery a few weeks ago that needed head gaskets. It had been sitting for about a year and it has 112K miles on it. It didn't start when I bought it, but would turn over slowly. I figured it had water in a couple of the cylinders. I replaced the head gaskets, got the head resurfaced and checked by a machine shop, and put it back together, and it still will not start. I have replaced the battery and CPS. I checked the fuel pressure at the valve on the fuel rail and fuel squirted out. I checked all of the plugs/wires and #2 and #3 are not firing. All of the others are firing. Would that keep it from cranking or is there anything else I should check?

 

You want to check the electrical connectors at the coils packs and make sure its plugged in all the way. Then make sure your plug wires are plugged into the coils all the way.

If it was a dead ship I would be looking at grounds and things like that but since its isolated to #2 & #3 its either a bad wire or not connected all the way.

 

If the engine is turning over at the proper speed, reset the inerita switch on the fire wall and try again.
When you replaced the crank sensor, did you install the sensor to the engine then the spacers and nots, if not that will be your problem.

 

Well, I checked the coil connectors and coil wires into the coil and that check out ok. Checked the inerita switch and that was ok. I did a compression test and found that cylinder #4 has only 75 psi, #6 has only 65 psi, and #8 has only 60 psi. This of course all of these are on the passenger side head. I did find a helicoil in one of the head bolt holes, so I did not torque the bolts all the way as i should have (didn't go the full 90 degree on the last turn). I figure the best thing to do is to pull the head back off and go with ARP studs. Which leads to my next question, what stud kit should I buy?

Then I still have #2 & #3 not firing. I'm going to order a new set of plug wires to try and get all cylinders firing, but I think the big problem is the compression.

 

Wow that sucks... the bolts call for torque specks for a reason, i guess you learned that the hard way.

 

If the job is done is done right the first time you will not have to ever take the heads off again. So why use it? Never have i had to do a head gasket job twice.

 

First off, I'm glad to hear you have never had to do a head gasket job twice. Now, the reason I'm inclined to use the ARP studs is so I can properly torque the head down without tearing out the helicoil that I mentioned was in one of the bolt holes. That's why I didn't torque the passenger side head all the way the first time. I did 45 degrees in lieu of 90 on the last turn. Yes, I have learned my lesson, but I didn't think it would be that big of a deal.

It's only a 2 hour job to tear it back down.

 

Well its a big deal. Its more important that the bolts are torqued correctly when dealing with aluminum heads due to the fact that they warp easier. The block is the weakest link with the engine however if the correct procedure is followed there will be no issues. Toddco sells the arp bolts your asking about but I don't think to many of us have purchased things from him. I would call Rovers North or Atlantic British to order the bolts.
If the helicoil was installed correctly you should have no worries of tearing it out either and should be able to just order a set of new head bolts, torque it down and go.