My (failed) option B SVS fix attempt - thoughts?
#1
My (failed) option B SVS fix attempt - thoughts?
Hey everyone. Thanks for all the contributions to this site so far, I lurk almost every day but don't post very often. But I'm gonna need a bit of help now.
i've had the three amigos constantly on since I bought the car (the lights for the TC and ABS are VERY dim, so I only noticed HDC when I first bought it). And about 2 months ago I had a indy rover shop read my codes with their fancy equipment. I was told it was something to do with the shuttle valve switches, and the part needed would cost about ~$200, plus labor. I'm fairly certain it was the error that is displayed in the sticky at the top of the page. I thanked them but turned down the repair by them hoping to do it myself later.
Fast forward to today. I follow the sticky guide at the top, option B, word for word. Upon removal of the bottom plastic cover I test the switches resistances and it matches pretty closely to the guide (3.01, 2.02, 1.02) So this means my switches are good and the repair should work? I then wired one switch to the YG wire from the main harness side ( solder, heatshrin) and the other to the bolt for ground (Used metal wire wheel to make sure of good ground). This did not clear my lights, so I then went back and checked the resistances with the switches still instaled on the ABS unit and they are all to spec.
So what does this leave me with as far as options? I know the swtiches are good, as well as the connections with my proper option B repair. What fuses/relays could trigger the lights? Could I still have a bad wheel sensor somewhere? And if so can I diagnose this in my garage without a special rover reader tool?
Thanks in advance!
i've had the three amigos constantly on since I bought the car (the lights for the TC and ABS are VERY dim, so I only noticed HDC when I first bought it). And about 2 months ago I had a indy rover shop read my codes with their fancy equipment. I was told it was something to do with the shuttle valve switches, and the part needed would cost about ~$200, plus labor. I'm fairly certain it was the error that is displayed in the sticky at the top of the page. I thanked them but turned down the repair by them hoping to do it myself later.
Fast forward to today. I follow the sticky guide at the top, option B, word for word. Upon removal of the bottom plastic cover I test the switches resistances and it matches pretty closely to the guide (3.01, 2.02, 1.02) So this means my switches are good and the repair should work? I then wired one switch to the YG wire from the main harness side ( solder, heatshrin) and the other to the bolt for ground (Used metal wire wheel to make sure of good ground). This did not clear my lights, so I then went back and checked the resistances with the switches still instaled on the ABS unit and they are all to spec.
So what does this leave me with as far as options? I know the swtiches are good, as well as the connections with my proper option B repair. What fuses/relays could trigger the lights? Could I still have a bad wheel sensor somewhere? And if so can I diagnose this in my garage without a special rover reader tool?
Thanks in advance!
#2
#3
#4
Mike, you were correct. I thought I remembered reading the codes/lights would go away by themselves but I had a guy clear them with the autologic a couple hours ago and everything seems to be fine now. Certainly a weird feeling, never driven this car without all those lights staring back at me.
Now the driveshaft is rebuilt and back in, CDL mechanism installed, and TC is back. Time to finally take this off-road for the first time. Though I still need to remove that damned lo-range lockout solenoid. . .
Now the driveshaft is rebuilt and back in, CDL mechanism installed, and TC is back. Time to finally take this off-road for the first time. Though I still need to remove that damned lo-range lockout solenoid. . .
Last edited by cipher982; 12-12-2011 at 04:50 PM.
#5
Mike, you were correct. I thought I remembered reading the codes/lights would go away by themselves but I had a guy clear them with the autologic a couple hours ago and everything seems to be fine now. Certainly a weird feeling, never driven this car without all those lights staring back at me.
Now the driveshaft is rebuilt and back in, CDL mechanism installed, and TC is back. Time to finally take this off-road for the first time. Though I still need to remove that damned lo-range lockout solenoid. . .
Now the driveshaft is rebuilt and back in, CDL mechanism installed, and TC is back. Time to finally take this off-road for the first time. Though I still need to remove that damned lo-range lockout solenoid. . .
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SolbergFanBoi
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12-01-2011 06:50 AM