After an unsuccessful attempt last weekend I decided to disconnect/remove the ABS module. I tried and tried to remove the (3) 4mm screws that hold the SVS cover plate on with the unit in place - it was a pain in the ****. To all you who were able to remove the cover plate without disconnecting the brake lines and removing the abs module, I applaud you. You have incredible patients.

Actually, I was quite surprised, removing/replacing the ABS module was not all that bad. Didn't have to activate the ABS pump to cycle the air, I had my old man pump the brake pedal and I cracked the bleeder's (starting at the passenger's rear, driver's rear, passenger front, driver's front). By the time, I got to the passenger front line almost all the air was purged from the system and we had a normal brake pedal again!

When I was sure all the air was out of the system (we went through a bottle and a half of brake fluid) I set the transfer case to Low, activated the HDC and let it do it's thing down my driveway. HDC worked fine. Then, I took it out on the road, got her up to 55-60 mph (T-case in high) and did a brake-stand. Stopped on a dime, especially with my new rotors and pads. NO MORE THREE AMIGOS!!!

If anyone wants to tackle this repair and has questions, feel free to shoot me a PM. I'll see if I can help.



I wanted to add these quick side notes. I followed this to a "T".

If you disconnected brake lines... Bleed the brakes. You can use the traditional method with a helper following this sequence: Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front left. Brake pedal may still feel spongy. Go for a test drive and try to get the ABS and TC to kick on. Find a good incline to test HDC or on a flat ground, accelerate and let off the pedal and HDC should kick in, slowing you down. You must actuate these functions in order to get the trapped air out during the final bleed. Re- bleed the brakes. It is very important to do this last step after you successfully activate TC/HDC/ABS so that the trapped air in the modulator is expelled.


Now, I can install my new CDL shifter! Thanks for the shifter Hilltoppersx!

 

Glad u got the shuttle valves done. One box you can tick. just take your time and label all the differnt screws when taking out the console. You have any questions let me know. Take pictures of how it comes apart if you need to. like I told you before, when you put it back together use sheet metal screws where the rivets are currently. In case you need to get in there when a drill is not handy. After the cdl is in you will be ready to wheel with us!

 

Always do the electrical ground repair at the same time cause it usually always acts up also.

 

done and done.

 

actually the best way to bleed the abs modulator is at the modulator. works every time. you dont have to get underneath the vehicle. just start with one then the others and do it four times with each different one on top as you start.

works for all modulators regardless of vehicle.

you just need someone to press the brake pedal when you do it.

 

Can you better explain this?

 

I think he is saying you can bleed the lines at the modulator. Simply, crack and bleed all four lines at the modulator.

 

the d2's are not like the d1's.. you have to bleed the brakes and the modulator to make sure that all air is purged from the system. if you are out on the trails you can get away with just bleeding the brakes but if you want to make sure the brake pedal isn't mushy one bit then you need to bleed the modulator as well.

 

Got it, thank you.