Is my WATER PUMP bad?
#31
05-23-2014, 02:50 PM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are 100% sure the radiator has been replaced then I seriously doubt it's clogged.
Another thing I just thought of is a bad radiator cap could cause coolant to leak and the engine to get warm also. Might want to keep that in the back of your mind if all else fails.
I would start by going to the auto parts store and getting one of these test to check for a head gasket leak. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FcpQ7AodInwANg
If that test checks out okay, then replace fan clutch and water pump.
Another thing I just thought of is a bad radiator cap could cause coolant to leak and the engine to get warm also. Might want to keep that in the back of your mind if all else fails.
I would start by going to the auto parts store and getting one of these test to check for a head gasket leak. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FcpQ7AodInwANg
If that test checks out okay, then replace fan clutch and water pump.
Pressure tested and is losing 1 psi every 10 min..
#32
05-24-2014, 12:20 AM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that's good news on the combustion test.
Did you find a coolant leak when you did a pressure test? Are you losing any coolant in the tank?
It might be time to get one of these UV leak detection kits to help find your leak.
Something like this:
Mastercool/Professional UV leak detection kit includes 12 Volt/50 Watts UV light, 1 oz. oil/ATF/gas, diesel fluorescent dye, 1 oz. engine coolant dye and UV safety glasses (MSC53351) | A/C Leak Detector | AutoZone.com
Did you find a coolant leak when you did a pressure test? Are you losing any coolant in the tank?
It might be time to get one of these UV leak detection kits to help find your leak.
Something like this:
Mastercool/Professional UV leak detection kit includes 12 Volt/50 Watts UV light, 1 oz. oil/ATF/gas, diesel fluorescent dye, 1 oz. engine coolant dye and UV safety glasses (MSC53351) | A/C Leak Detector | AutoZone.com
top driver's side read 170f and directly middle of radiator is reading 95F, top passenger side is 85F...
Is my radiator clogged/defective? PO gave me receipts with new radiator less than 1000 miles ago and it looks new. Am I missing something? Am I measuring correctly? Engine is running and fan kicked on idling at 212F..
91.F
86.9F
91.1
69.8
78.8
92.3
169.7
I'm gonna have to get the UV dye too... seems like there is a small leak and I can't seem to find it.
#33
05-24-2014, 12:55 PM
This article will help explain how to test different things under the hood with your IR thermometer. Troubleshoot Engine with Infrared Thermometer
I believe that temp dropping from one side to the other is normal in a cross flow radiator.
I'm very curious to see if you are able to find a leak with the UV light.
If you only over heat at idle then I would suspect the water pump or fan clutch. You can also use your IR thermometer to check the inlet and outlet heater core hoses to check for a problem. The article explains how to do that also.
I believe that temp dropping from one side to the other is normal in a cross flow radiator.
I'm very curious to see if you are able to find a leak with the UV light.
If you only over heat at idle then I would suspect the water pump or fan clutch. You can also use your IR thermometer to check the inlet and outlet heater core hoses to check for a problem. The article explains how to do that also.
Last edited by Jared9220; 05-24-2014 at 01:00 PM.
#34
05-24-2014, 02:45 PM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This article will help explain how to test different things under the hood with your IR thermometer. Troubleshoot Engine with Infrared Thermometer
I believe that temp dropping from one side to the other is normal in a cross flow radiator.
I'm very curious to see if you are able to find a leak with the UV light.
If you only over heat at idle then I would suspect the water pump or fan clutch. You can also use your IR thermometer to check the inlet and outlet heater core hoses to check for a problem. The article explains how to do that also.
I believe that temp dropping from one side to the other is normal in a cross flow radiator.
I'm very curious to see if you are able to find a leak with the UV light.
If you only over heat at idle then I would suspect the water pump or fan clutch. You can also use your IR thermometer to check the inlet and outlet heater core hoses to check for a problem. The article explains how to do that also.
Thanks for your help, I changed the heater core hoses back, but not much difference as suspected. I drove to harbor frieght yesterday to buy the IR thermo, and this is what I observed:
Idling 215 all the way up to 221.
When moving on the streets, I drop a bit to 210 to 212.
When on the freeway, My temps drop to 208 to 210.
Seems like when I gas more, temps go down. Then came home and got those readings above... the radiator seems like it is not consistent in its temperature. Some parts of the radiator are cold as outside ambient temp while top right part is at 170F
No sloshing sound, heater blows hot
#35
05-24-2014, 03:33 PM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just noticed in the pictures above that you have the fan shroud removed. You don't drive around without it one right? The fan needs the shroud to properly cool.
I believe the part of the radiator near the upper radiator hose should be hotter because that is where the hot coolant is entering to be cooled. The area near the lower hose should be cooler. If you have large areas in the middle that are way lower or higher than the outsides then you have problem.
To be honest if you had a major overheating issue your temps would be climbing way higher than 214-221 at idle. 221 was what I was at with a stock stat and and a worn out clutch.
If you don't find a leak with the UV light then replace the water pump, fan clutch and get the gray LR 180 soft spring.
I believe the part of the radiator near the upper radiator hose should be hotter because that is where the hot coolant is entering to be cooled. The area near the lower hose should be cooler. If you have large areas in the middle that are way lower or higher than the outsides then you have problem.
To be honest if you had a major overheating issue your temps would be climbing way higher than 214-221 at idle. 221 was what I was at with a stock stat and and a worn out clutch.
If you don't find a leak with the UV light then replace the water pump, fan clutch and get the gray LR 180 soft spring.
#36
05-27-2014, 12:04 AM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just noticed in the pictures above that you have the fan shroud removed. You don't drive around without it one right? The fan needs the shroud to properly cool.
I believe the part of the radiator near the upper radiator hose should be hotter because that is where the hot coolant is entering to be cooled. The area near the lower hose should be cooler. If you have large areas in the middle that are way lower or higher than the outsides then you have problem.
To be honest if you had a major overheating issue your temps would be climbing way higher than 214-221 at idle. 221 was what I was at with a stock stat and and a worn out clutch.
If you don't find a leak with the UV light then replace the water pump, fan clutch and get the gray LR 180 soft spring.
I believe the part of the radiator near the upper radiator hose should be hotter because that is where the hot coolant is entering to be cooled. The area near the lower hose should be cooler. If you have large areas in the middle that are way lower or higher than the outsides then you have problem.
To be honest if you had a major overheating issue your temps would be climbing way higher than 214-221 at idle. 221 was what I was at with a stock stat and and a worn out clutch.
If you don't find a leak with the UV light then replace the water pump, fan clutch and get the gray LR 180 soft spring.
#37
05-27-2014, 12:15 AM
)
#38
05-27-2014, 08:21 AM
Have you replaced that Motorad stat yet? That should be step #1.
Here is the link to the Lucky8 ebay store where I bought mine. $80 free shipping- Low Temperature 99 04 Genuine Land Rover Discovery 2 Thermostat 180 Deg | eBay
The only part of the cooling system that hasn't be replaced by you or the Previous Owner after you install the ^above^ stat would be the water pump, so that should be step #2.
Link for water Pump $150- http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4378OE
Last edited by Jared9220; 05-27-2014 at 08:24 AM.
#40
05-27-2014, 09:16 PM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Pasdena
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought we were in agreement that the temps you were getting on the radiator with the IR are normal. Oh well, Now you know for sure I guess.
Have you replaced that Motorad stat yet? That should be step #1.
Here is the link to the Lucky8 ebay store where I bought mine. $80 free shipping- Low Temperature 99 04 Genuine Land Rover Discovery 2 Thermostat 180 Deg | eBay
The only part of the cooling system that hasn't be replaced by you or the Previous Owner after you install the ^above^ stat would be the water pump, so that should be step #2.
Link for water Pump $150- Rover Water Pump (STC4378) Replacement Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles
Have you replaced that Motorad stat yet? That should be step #1.
Here is the link to the Lucky8 ebay store where I bought mine. $80 free shipping- Low Temperature 99 04 Genuine Land Rover Discovery 2 Thermostat 180 Deg | eBay
The only part of the cooling system that hasn't be replaced by you or the Previous Owner after you install the ^above^ stat would be the water pump, so that should be step #2.
Link for water Pump $150- Rover Water Pump (STC4378) Replacement Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles
I checked the Motorad and it opens and 180.
Just took out the water pump. As far as I can tell, there isn't anything wrong with it. Ordered a new one anyways and gonna replace and put everything back together and see what happens.
Also ran the hose through the hoses and the block and it runs through fine.
Just ordered this.. hope it fixes my cooling issues.