Id bet on the trans after hearing the 2nd set of videos, a restricted flow of ATF or just a failing trans. I've heard it before in my moms 2004 Honda Odyssey just before the trans failed from never servicing it.

 

Yea keep in mind I put this in used from a boneyard. Had about 125k on it.
I wonder if something got into it during the swap? idk what a PITA. All I can do is drain the **** tom. and see if its burnt or chunked with BS.
It does run and shift great but with the damn noise. You would think if it was the tranny and it wasn't getting fluid it would slip or at least clunk here and there. Not the case , smooth as silk.

 

ok here is an update. while looking at all the possible scenarios again today I happen to check my front diff. and found it completely empty.
I filled it with new fluid ( old fluid yellow and like new) when I did the tranny rebuild a month ago . I have not bothered to consider it a possible noise point because when I pulled the front drive shaft the noise did not change at all.
So I guess by questions are:
*If the Diff was making the noise should it have stopped, decreased with the front shaft out?
*where did the fluid go? are there leak points to the wheel housing? I have NO fluid anywhere.
So I filled it with almost 2 quarts of 85 140 syn and thought wow this could be it and No the noise is exactly the same. UHG
Guess I'll go drain that and see if any chunks in the mix.......anybody have stock in fluids your return keeps going up

 

Those gears will still turn even if you don't have the drive shaft on. You probably burned up the bearing. Good news is they are not to expensive. Bad news is could be a slight pain to replace.

 

ok thanks, just drained and checked fluid after tooling around about 10 miles. No metal , no shavings, fluid crystal clear so where does that leave me? Also felt around the drain hole to see if any metal and NADA. I did not drain it or pull the plug prior to checking and filling just to be clear........only after I filled it again and drove did I actually pull the drain plug.
I would have to assume anything broken , worn , chipped etc would have to be in the fluid or diff bottom?

 

I would pull the output flange from the differential and check it and the bearing.

 

Go for a short drive and then feel the differential, if its hot, than blamo, its your bearing, good news is the used parts guys here will sell you a used diff for ~100$ I would check that first before pulling apart the t-case.

If you DO check the tcase bearing, heres the procedure for removing it off the top of my head, which you can do with the tcase still in the truck:

1) pull the shaft
2) lock the t-case
3) pull the nyloc nut off (1 3/16" 1/2" drive socket, you can get it from AutoZone for 6$, also will need a new nyloc, (I used the original with Loctite, which if you can, I would suggest against doing that )
4) pull the flange off
5) Remove the T-case out put seal, you'll need a replacement ( Part #:FTC4939) You can hammer the seal gently with a flathead to bend it inwards, it'll come out much easier.
5) Remove the circlip that retains the bearing
6) Put the flange back on, put nyloc nut back on also, snug it, then use a slide hammer to pull the flange again, which will pull the bearing out along with the flange, its an entire shaft that comes out. (Note: if you rent the slide-hammer from AutoZone (80$ to rent) its a little too long and you'll hit your knuckles on the trans, I did it, sucked.)
7) check the bearing!

then reverse order for install!

Its quite an easy job, I would suggest having new bearings and seals ready. The bearing you can get locally at NAPA, I'll find the bearing number if you need me to.

EDIT: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1130 , NAPA Bearing # : 6207 - J

I couldn't find any of the parts on Roversnorth's website, I'm positive they have them, you should look into that maybe for a cheaper price! Maybe ZGPhoto will chime in if you need to take this route.

 

Hey great I had read some old threads on checking to see if its hot ( diff).
I have done the output flanges on both sides to the t-case already when I had my old t-case in and re-used those on the "new" used one.
I know for a fact there is a bearing in the t-case that the splined shaft from the tranny goes in when they mount as that's what fried on my old t-case. Either that went and also fried the told tranny or the old tranny went and fried the t-case as well.
All in all there must be 3 bearing race sets in the t-case?
The one I just described and the 2 behind each output flange ?
Will drive and post..........

 

ok so latest update. Took the rover out for a 5 mile drive to get the noise isolated. NO Hot or even warm front Diff. Finally had the time and help to get it up on all 4 jack-stands, albeit a 3/8 inch clearance! Started out slow with backing off e-brake , then putting in N then putting in D to make sure it didn't come off the stands and go through to my Living Room . Had my son (22) get it up to 30 mph and nothing for noise. Was just about to give up after about 10 minutes of thinking it was coming off the stands due to all the vibration and moving form the tires spinning free and bam the sound came screetching on. Slid under the Rover for a quick minute and sure enough it's the output bearing behind the front flange! Thanks to Dane for the NAPA Part! In stock down the street ready for pick-up for $34. Just for the heck of it I called the Rover Dealer ( I had an extra Seal from the last re-build to return $25) and thought it would be worth the trip. Cost ???? $133 ! What a rip-off......... Will tear apart today and post results!!!

 

weirdest bearing noise I've heard! Glad its something easy.