Name this Noise video :(
Yea I hope it's really it! I had a few hours today so took the shaft off, flange off, cir-clip off and was able to get the old shaft and bearing assembly off using the old flange from my last t-case. I put the old flange on and used a large metal rod to ease it out prying between the t-case and the old flange. came out with-out much fanfare. I wasn't sure how to get the bearing off so lightly tapping it off with a hammer seemed to work. I honestly didn't see much wrong with the old bearing. Seems to have a slight rough spot when you roll it but certainly looked functional, Who knows maybe it doesn't take much out of wrack when your rolling along with all that pressure?
Whats the procedure to get the new bearing on the old shaft?
Thanks and will have it back on tomorrow and post!
Whats the procedure to get the new bearing on the old shaft?
Thanks and will have it back on tomorrow and post!
New bearing I pressed it on with a neighbors press, then forgot to put the metal shim back on... so I just hammered it off and on again then threw it in the truck, not advisable, but I did it and its working fine.
Well Jumpin Jimmeny fn time I have fixed this crazy noise issue.
Got it all back together and it was the damn output bearing after all. Pretty straightforward job all in all. But dumbazzz me forgot to put the giant washer that goes behind the lock nut and in front of the flange on. I was wondering why I had so much thread left on the shaft. I original thought I did not press the splined shaft in far enough but thought impossible the bearing was on all the way and the circlip fit perfectly in front of the bearing. So off comes the shaft for 400th time in this Circus of a rebuild.
A little tip is I used the old flange again this time as a press on top of the new bearing with some marine high-grade grease and tapped it into a block of wood. Worked perfectly to seat and press the bearing onto the splined shaft.
Question for anyone in the know:
Have to take the rear shaft off and put in all new bolts and lock-nuts since I just put it in and out a few times to check all the possible scenarios for the noise. The rear shaft has the grease updated slip joint but will fit on both ways. The front shaft will not obviously but the grease slip joint goes to the Diff side. What about the back? I thought I read it is the opposite and the slip joint ( see pic below) goes to the t-case output flange side???
Thanks for everyone's input and help! Anyone have any questions about the drive-train I can surely help! ( I hope)
Got it all back together and it was the damn output bearing after all. Pretty straightforward job all in all. But dumbazzz me forgot to put the giant washer that goes behind the lock nut and in front of the flange on. I was wondering why I had so much thread left on the shaft. I original thought I did not press the splined shaft in far enough but thought impossible the bearing was on all the way and the circlip fit perfectly in front of the bearing. So off comes the shaft for 400th time in this Circus of a rebuild.
A little tip is I used the old flange again this time as a press on top of the new bearing with some marine high-grade grease and tapped it into a block of wood. Worked perfectly to seat and press the bearing onto the splined shaft.
Question for anyone in the know:
Have to take the rear shaft off and put in all new bolts and lock-nuts since I just put it in and out a few times to check all the possible scenarios for the noise. The rear shaft has the grease updated slip joint but will fit on both ways. The front shaft will not obviously but the grease slip joint goes to the Diff side. What about the back? I thought I read it is the opposite and the slip joint ( see pic below) goes to the t-case output flange side???
Thanks for everyone's input and help! Anyone have any questions about the drive-train I can surely help! ( I hope)
Last edited by parkerlander; May 20, 2014 at 08:43 PM.
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bradman951
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Apr 27, 2013 01:18 AM



