" I've been told by people at "Irontite" who make a 3 stage kit consisting of a caustic flush, ceramic, then a "mix with AF", that authorized LR dealers are purchasing that combo in increasing numbers, ostensibly because it works without damaging the cooling system. I'll put it to the test and let the chips fall where they may, maybe someone will benefit from my success or failure.
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Since it will cost me nothing, I am all eyes and ears, waiting to see results of "irontite" so be sure to keep us informed. I will be hard to convince, and still think it is best to do the needed repair right, rather than the mickey mouse "cure in a can" method.

 

Please let us know how it turns out. I am looking at the same situation right now and can't decide which way to go. Good luck!

 

Pinkytoe's,
i think his last post he had over a year and 12k, but he took time to make he did it correctly.
there is many high pressure boilers out there running the same type of stuff and they hold high pressure steam for years and years.
if you block off your heater core while doing it and am willing to replace your radiator and t-stat when done. what do you have to really have to lose?

 

Drumming my fingers waiting for news on my heads, got all my parts ready. So other than the fact that they are not studs, any reason for me to distrust these Beck Arnley bolts? Made in the USA with a 10.9 stamped on the top and a tube of graphite looking lube... I assume I can be confident these are really TTY bolts? Nah, they wouldn't do that.... Oh, I'd like to chase the threads for good measure, just a regular tap of the right size from Tacoma Screw? Or some special exotic requirements...

 

I keep thinking about how I, some time ago, refreshed a 67 LandCruiser engine and re-used 37 y.o. head bolts GIIIST fine.

 

Beck Arnley bolts are as good as any

 

if you are think of going PT's way and you fell you may have a crack behind a liner, i would think that would be all the more reason to use studs as the change the location of the stress.

 

Beck Arnley is good stuff

 

You: "I keep thinking about how I, some time ago, refreshed a 67 LandCruiser engine and re-used 37 y.o. head bolts GIIIST fine."
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Yes, but back at that time, Toyota Land Cruiser wasn't using stretch bolts, as are common these days. For my 1991 Range Rover classic, same Rover V8 engine as now, but in 3.9 Litre, I used regular Rover non stretch head bolts too, because Rover hadn't yet changed to the stretch head bolts in 1991. I can't recall year Rover changed to the stretch head bolts, but I think it was 1995.
I am convinced that the Rover stretch head bolts cause, or at least contribute to, block cracking of the thin wall behind cylinder liners during an overheating issue with engine, while studs/nuts do not; at least they don't exert same stress as the stretch head bolts. If you want to increase risk of cracking block, use stretch head bolts. By the way, John Robison, who runs the well known Land Rover service center in MA, agrees that the stretch head bolts cause, or at least contribute to, the cracking of block; he wrote such on his web posting.

 

I know, but 270$? Penny smart and pound foolish. Just posted regarding a DIY stud kit lol.