OK, I'm about to change out the window regulator on my right passenger side.

I also have an issue with my door locks. I have been advised it is likely the actuator, and if I was fixing my window, it wouldn't be too many more steps to do that at the same time.

So, I started looking to buy a door actuator. But, I'm not entirely sure that's what I need, as I guess I would need 4 of them - since none of the locks work automatically.

So, I'm going to re-post the lock issue, hoping maybe someone can confirm/clarify what parts I need, or what they think the problem is.

I have 2 key fobs for this Discovery - a big bonus, as my previous ones either had none, or they were broken. But, my door locks don't work, except by key. If I use the key fob, pressing either lock or unlock, the lights on the truck flash, the LED on the fob lights up, but the locks neither lock or unlock. If I press the lock/unlock button on my dash it makes a very faint clicking sound, but neither locks nor unlocks any doors.

Is there a central lock motor that could be bad rather than all 4 actuators? I'm just guessing.... that's why I need your help!

Any help is appreciated! I love my Discovery, but who can afford to fix every little thing at the dealership? Plus, I love telling the folks at work what I fixed on it each Monday

Thanks all!

Marni

 

Each door has a lock motor (actuator) and a superlock motor (actuator). There is no central lock motor.

It would be unusual for all of the doors to fail by mechanical means at the same time.

There are things that can inhibit central locking.

One would be a bad or un-powered BDU, or body control unit. But you would have other issues, and you do say you hear a faint click, etc. The BDU module sends lock commands via a data wire to the IDM ( Intelligent Driver Module), this refers to the function of "relay driver", it controls the relays that handle the locks. That IDM module is part of the fuse block inside the car. But if you hear the faint click, hopefully that pricey module and fuseblock are fine, and all that will be needed is as follows:

Simple things to check are fuse 13 in the underhood fuse box, and reset of the inertia switch which is on the firewall on passenger side (large cube shaped top with a button). If the inertia switch is triggered, it unlocks any locked doors if engine is running (to allow people to be rescued after a crash); it also prevents doors from being locked until manually reset. The fuse 13 connects the inertia switch to the door system. There is also fusible link 3 in the under hood fuse box, and fuses 1 and 20 in the fuse box in the passenger compartment. So your cheapest fix will be fuse 13 or maybe the inertia switch.

 

That is such a great help!! I was having doubts that all 4 actuators went at once. I'm very new to auto repairs, but with some comoon sense, and a lot of help on the forums, I'm learning!

I picked up a fuse tester yesterday (the rain stopped for a little while) and am about to head outside (rain stopped again, keeps delaying everything!) to test the fuses you indicated.... hopefully, that's all it is!

I'll keep you posted on what I find.

Thanks again!

 

@ Savannah Buzz,

I'm having problems simply disconnecting the actuator harness. It appears to be stuck. I thought this would be the easy part once I got the door panel off. Please help.

Mike Smith

 

Lessons are extra...

Here's some pages on working with the actuators, and wiring for them, and actual connector. All from the RAVE, a good idea to have your own copy before picking up a wrench. Check common fuses.