Spike says put one end of cheater bar on the ground and crank. Others have said take old serpantine belt, loop around crank pulley, then feed thru pipe. Clamp tight at other end of pipe with vise grips, wedge against frame, remove nut with socket, breaker bar, and cheater bar extension. I believe the RAVE suggests jamming something in the starter gear, but it ain't that easy to get to the starter.

 

No kidding, any room for an impact wrench in there?

 

I might need to see a video of this first!

 

I changed the the crankshaft seal this past winter in my garage. The harmonic balancer bolt is not on there hardcore like everybody thinks. As most bolts on Rovers excluding the head bolts and hub castle nut are not that tight.
I used this maintenance opportunity to drop my oil pan, stick a pry bar in the flywheel so it cannot turn. Then used a cheater bar on my breaker bar to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt. It was not that tight. But, I did torque it back to 185lbs. Its not that scary of a job. Worst part is laying on your back for 30 mins uninstalling and reinstalling the oil pan. I numbered the oil pan bolt holes to re-torqued them in proper sequence. While I was at it I replaced the Serp belt and all pullies, including the tensioner with Gates parts. The fan is easy to remove with a Ford 36mm fan cone wrench. $19.99 at O'Riely's. A few fast wackes toward the passenger side and it comes right off. This maintenance is much fast and easier than plug wires, which are most new owners 1st job.

My guess is that your front cover seal is leaking. I have a factory Land Rover front cover seal sitting here on my desk new in the cardboard and it seems flimsey. I'm pretty sure that is the source of my leak. But doing the oil pan gasket and crankshaft seal makes it no longer drip on my driveway!

Like that good quate says. "Land Rover dont leak, they mark their territory"

I'll post a picture and videos of my repair.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYKsOnVDTmo&hd=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JWkYIYuHiA&hd=1

Sorry about dropping the camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj_CrU0qiqY&hd=1

 

Nice work on that oil pan! Looks like brand new when done!

 

Yeah Simple Green overnight in your utility sink. Then spray it down again with full strength simple green & a hot pressure washer, makes it like shiney new. I know a shop would never take the time to do that. But they also have a parts washer too.

 

it could be the oil pressure switch, it is located on the pass towards the front upper side of the motor, they can come loose. replace the copper washer, than tighten down all the oil pan bolts to the propper torx.I did this and she dosnt leake as bad.But you have to understand if your truck dosnt leak oil, it isnt a Land Rover.

 

It is a design feature for use in the rain forest and jungle areas to repel army ants when you are parked. You can buy a lot of Rotella for what it will cost to stop all leaks. Sorry, I used a brand name for oil, now we will have more verbosity about viscosity....

 

Thanks for the pics and vids! Being I have gone through much flood water the past few days, it is impossible to see the leaks now. The good news is though that when I looked under, no new oil or coolant was noticeable. Granted they could have been washed away with the water, but not a drop on the driveway the past 2 days and it has been dry. I will keep my eye on it. Looks like a repair I could handle though.