Ok here we go....

First off, I know how to rebuild engines (rebuilt 12-15), have the tools, etc etc

Here is what I have:

2004 Discovery II was overheating when I bought it so knew it needed headgaskets. Ordered new heads and gasket kit from Will. Went ahead and got the following:
1) Timing Chain
2) oil pump
3) water pump
4) full gasket kit
5) Push rods
6) Lifters

Once I got the pan off I crawled under an looked to make sure the cam bearings hadnt shifter and saw how roasted the cam was. I did some research and decided to go with the Kent H180 but i see they recommend (im assuming) intake valve springs.

1) Are they required due to the aggressiveness of the cam
2)can i just use the stock ones on my Tillery heads

Lastly, this is for the elders. I have it this far, it has 170k on the odometer. Wouldnt it make sense tnd should I just go ahead and replace all rod/main bearings, cam bearings, and rings. Block decked and vatted, honed

I am buried in this G4 so whats another $1500-$2k for the engine and the piece of mind. Have the ACE suspension installed along with retrofit rear a/c so this is just another wallet drain.

Lastly,, any shops in Texas (I have crews working all over the state so I am in all the major metropolitan areas 2-3 times a month) you recommend to rebuild the longblock or do the machine work?

Thanks Guys

 

Have you taken it apart yet? I have had half a dozen apart, most show almost no wear on the mains, a tiny bit on the rods, none on the cam. Rings are usually just below the factory new spec when removed. If I have the block out I replace all of them because it makes people feel better, not because they need it. I can almost guarantee the cam will be a disappointment. Stock cam has peak torque at 2500 rpm and hp at 4500. Unless you get a very aggressive cam that shifts that peak 1000 rpm or more to the right from The Wedge Shop or RPI you will never feel it in a 5500lb truck. I have the 0-60 time on a crower cam equipped truck and it is embarassing. There can be exceptions, but my 260k truck and 240k truck feel just as healthy as the one with 52k on it.

 

If you decide to jump down the rabbit hole of a rebuild, I would either pin the liners or do a top hat liners/sleeve job on the block. As my motor didn't have any slipped liners when I did my rebuild, i chose to pin them via the procedure below; as top-hat liners were out of my range of affordability at the time ...have 15K on it with no issues.
Just my $0.02


LINER PINNING PDF:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i39...ew?usp=sharing

Pic of my block after pinning: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzg...9xVD689KjSSfFg

 

So your saying to not do the Kent H180 that it isnt all of that it appears to be cracked up to be? Im gonna pull a rod cap and check it. The engine is still in and has the heads off and oil pan off. Saw the cam all wore and that is why I asked. If this was a Chevy 350 or Ford 351 I would have already tore it down. So need some experienced folk on here in regards to the internals of these engines

 

Super similar to those small blocks, pull the rod cap and you will see. I kinda doubt the cam had much actual wear vs discoloration, you could measure it if you want. For the same or close money I would use an aftermarket cam, but if it is a lot more expensive I would put stock back unless you are going to go for a motor with peak hp closer to 5500 or 6000 rpm like they do in the Morgans. BTW, the V8 in the Morgan is stroked to 5.0 and puts out 350 hp which is impressive.

 

i dropped a Crower Stage 2 cam in my '04 and the difference was noticeable. i mean, i wasn't taking it to the track afterwards, but it definitely had a little more get up and go.

 

I can find very little to no information about the Kent H180 but the recommend there Valve Springs and I am trying to figure out if they are a requirement or if they are no different than the ones already on the heads. THe flipping springs are as much as the Cam

 

@Johnyakimo1855 email them lots of these engines are built up of performance use that may be why the recommend springs. Normal Disco use is pretty low RPM in comparison

 

The cool thing about the Rover V8 is that the bare engine block only weighs ~80lbs so its pretty inexpensive to ship. Not sure about TX but a couple of good options in the US are D&D Fabrication in Michigan or Q&E Engine & Machine in California. Have used them both and happy with quality of work from both; Q&E was more competitive price-wise but Mark at D&D is Rover V8 wizard and I appreciated his communication and service the first time I rebuilt an engine.