I'm actually quite involved in the rave, over the course of my issues I've spent nearly 3 full days reading in it, and I read that in it. The wiring is correct, not reversed. There's no way to reverse the plug either. I checked everything four times over. I did miss that the adaptive values have to be reset in the RAVE, but I have seen that said online. I have also seen every single place that says that a slue of people immediately saying that this is not the case. Ive also read a dozen or so threads pertaining to my issue and above I've listed the other possible solutions.

 

Didn't prove anything otherwise in this thread. I'm lead directly to the CKP as the problem, the faults are dead on. Something is amiss with the CKP and it's up to you to stand back and take a fresh look at it. I'm simply the catalyst to get you more snow covered...... and why are your top O2's disconnected? That holds the ECM in open loop, no adaptives there.

 

I agree, I wish I had another to try, but for now I'm stuck exploring other options.

The O2s were just disconnected so I could pull the harness up and repair it and I simply hadn't reconnected them yet.

Here in a bit I'm going to try the fuse box. If that doesn't work ill try the ECU/BCU/Cluster. I'll update after.

 

That should be good then. Just asking since referencing your parts truck in other replies.

Since there is no spark indication. Did you check at more than one plug? Did you check relay R4 - FUSE BOX-PASSENGER COMPARTMENT?

Jury may be out on whether CKP adaptive values really need rest. Many others apparently R&R's successfully sans a reset.

As previous reply suggested I would be questioning my own wiring repair. A visual of a completed wiring repair means little and less so if inspected by the electrician doing the repair. Individual wire continuity check CKP to ECM at connectors, and ensure not shorting to each other or to gnd. That check prior to applying power is SOP in many industries.
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Wether in this case they need to be reset or not is moot to me, it's good practice cuz you have zero control over your motor other than being hands and wallet for the ECM. You wanna be owned? That's your prerogative. It's generally good practice to reset the adaptives on a wearing motor to keep it's values fresh and your stoichiometric within range. I hate going to the Dentist but do so anyways cuz I like my natural teeth at 53. Crowns, bridges and implants cost a small fortune..... see what I'm getting at?

 

I definitely agree its a good IDE, but I don't have a scanner that can do that and there are no shops around that work on land rovers within about an hour and a half drive.

But the important part is, SHE RUNS!

I took my wiring back apart on the harness side. It was worked correctly, but I went ahead and shortened it because I had really left too much extra length. I also went ahead and swapped out the engine bay fuse box. Left the battery charging the whole time I was working on it since it had dropped a little from the cranking.

 

Somebody has to have an Autologic closer to you than 90 minutes.

 

That's good news.

A quick web search per the reset leads me to believe it is done by shops to prevent any short term driveability issues that might occur during adaptation, good to do but not required. Plan to R&R mine soon and hoping that's correct.
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Somebody may privately, but no shops. I live in an incredibly rural place, so not a ton of shops around. Like five within a 45 minute drive in any direction.

I don't think you'll have any issue, number9.

 

you can check the crankshaft sensor with an obdII scanner, put the scale on rpm if no rpm while cranking its a bad csps