Count yourself lucky that the rod failed and left the door UNlocked!

 

Guess I am... Won't the LOCK/UNLOCK button in the center of the dash be able to operate that? If I get a fob, will it operate the locks? Or is the only way to fix the problem - the linkage replacement?

 

Yes, the LOCK/UNLOCK button should lock and unlock the truck, but only if you are in the truck, of course.

And yes, if you get a keyless handset and program the BCU to recognize it you would be able to use it to lock and unlock the truck. But, they too are known to fail. I always want to have at least two ways to unlock my truck (key and fob), plus the key is a mechanical method that is not dependent on electronics.

Replacing the door lock pin is not difficult, just a little tedious like so many things with Rovers and in life.

When the pin broke in my truck years and years ago I made a replacement from a 20d nail I had lying around. This was long before the replacement pin sold by CARS4X4 was available. Description linked below.

EDIT - I just saw that this post was number 3200 for me. Do I get a sticker?

https://discoweb.org/index.php?threa...-99-dii.47087/

 

UPD: local locksmith cut the blade in like 1 minute for $9, so that's done and the new key fob at least works as a key... Called a local independent LR specialist, asking them how much they would charge for programming the key fob. Get this: they said they can't do it, and the dealer is my best bet. But we remember, that the dealer pretty much told me to **** off. So now I was referred to some sort of a keyless shop, that specialized in remotes.... This is almost funny. In fact, the indy said this: "the software is... eh..... kind of iffy...." That's a direct quote )))
UPD 2: the keyless shop said that they can't do it )))) Got several refuses from various places today, but a couple of people yet said they might possibly do it next week. Literally 2 people.One of them said it'll cost $168 to program. Wow.
P.S. Also, I've ordered the $30 new 304 stainless pin/linkage from eBay, the seller is the same company that sells it on their website, 4x4 something... The stainless steel pin/linkage looks a lot different from the original POS pin, so once I get it, I'll try to swap. It looks like this is something that can be done even as preventive maintenance, too. It's a great truck, but so many small things are of such inferior quality... It's almost amazing.

 

Got the linkage/pin that I paid $30 for. It looked tiny on eBay. In reality it's a chunk of steel, almost 4" long and pretty hefty. There is also a lot of machining on it, so now I see why they charge $30 for. Curious to see, what the original part looks like. Perhaps I'll try the job tomorrow...

 

ace hardware has the key blank and will cut it for like 10$. Then you cut the new 'end' off to same length as old one, and drill tiny hole, and replace it into working fob locking block with press pin...
as for programming: Nancom
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/...-petrol-v8-kit
well worth the price if you plan to keep your disco for a few years....

key blank RV4:

this one was cut at Ace hardware of the stock fob key...

 

Whey I bought this truck earlier this summer, it already came with a cheap key blank cut into a key, that's what I had from the get-to. In fact, I then made a second one, although it cost me $16-17 at a kiosk in Walmart. So in this thread, I am talking about a complete, new, working key fob; I had a locksmith cut the key blade on the fob, and it works fine AS A KEY, but now I need to program the actual FOB. Haven't got around to it yet.

 

I went through a key fob exercise a while back. First and foremost, I would highly recommend getting a Nanocom. The price for them went up quite a bit from when I sold my last Disco to my current one, but they are well worth it. Not only is the key programming pretty straightforward, it does a multitude of other stuff that will pay for itself in no time.

Also, I was dippy and paid the man for a new OEM key fob as I found out the cheapo one that came with the vehicle couldn’t be programmed. I did a whole thread on it that you might be able to learn a bit from.

Fast forward to pretty recently and someone on a failbook group posted this link to an eBay sell for the 315 mhz one that he was able to program with a Nanocom: https://www.ebay.com/itm/40362835868...mis&media=COPY

I’ve not tried it yet, but that is a heck ton cheaper than OEM alternatives. In terms of the blade itself, that one might be a bit harder. If you got the above keys (with fobs) then that would probably be cheaper as I think those come with blanks that you can easily have cut. When I ordered the OEM one, I just took the blade out of the one that didn’t work, and put it in the new OEM one and programmed and I was off to the races. Hope this helps.