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New GPR Block installed

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  #21  
Old 05-10-2013, 09:12 PM
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Perfect, thanks!
 
  #22  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:29 AM
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Congrats Dan. I'm 1600 miles into my GPR longblock and so far so good.
 
  #23  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:18 PM
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Are you keeping the revs down for a certain # of miles for break-in?
 
  #24  
Old 05-15-2013, 12:16 PM
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Not really. I'm not hammering it, but I'm also not making any concerted effort to keep them down. The only thing GPR recommended was zinc additive with initial oil, changed at 500 miles, and then zinc one more time. The bottle of zinc said to change the oil again after 1,000 miles, so I'm about to do that, then I'll be on a normal 3,000 mile schedule.

Btw, what oil are you running?

I still have a somewhat rough idle. I want to attribute that to the cam, but I really think its something else. But I'm not sure what cause I've replaced just about everything.
 
  #25  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:15 AM
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Pennzoil 5W30, then will switch to a synthetic blend after 5K. Perhaps your idle is due to a vacuum line somewhere. If you have SAI, they're everywhere. I found that the black pump on the passenger side firewall did not have a good vacuum connection. Used zip ties for now but will need to figure something else out. That gave me a rough idle until I fixed it. Also could be O2 sensor(s). Mine got fried in the initial stage of firing up the engine for the first time.

Also, I'm running at 197-206F (depending on what kind of driving) on a hot day with an 180F thermostat. Is that what you're seeing?
 
  #26  
Old 05-16-2013, 10:57 AM
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I didn't check that SAI pump lines....I'll give them a good once over. I'm thinking my O2's are fine. I replaced all four and my engine fired within the first 5 seconds of cranking the first time, so I wouldn't expect any damage to them (although the warning on the zince additive says it can damage O2 sensors). So is your idle as smooth as with the factory engine?

I'm running 10W/40. I'm in AZ, so it's already 100+ here. When the engine is hot, my idle pressure is somewhere around 17-20 psi. Cold pressure is 52 psi at idle. I think both are good numbers.

I don't have a scan gauge, so I'm not sure what my coolant temps are running. My dash gauge reads dead in the middle every time (not that it's really accurate). I'll probably get a scan gauge soon. From what I've ready from others, your temps sounds pretty good to me.
 
  #27  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:44 AM
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Even with bad O2 sensor(s), the idle is as or more smooth. I'd recommend the UG over the SG just for the price.
 
  #28  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:48 PM
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Just back from a 1,500 mi road trip...15.2 mpg at 70-74 mph. Can do slightly better at 60-65 mph but cannot break the 16 mpg mark.
 

Last edited by Dan7; 07-18-2013 at 04:57 PM.
  #29  
Old 07-18-2013, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan7
Pennzoil 5W30, then will switch to a synthetic blend after 5K. Perhaps your idle is due to a vacuum line somewhere. If you have SAI, they're everywhere. I found that the black pump on the passenger side firewall did not have a good vacuum connection. Used zip ties for now but will need to figure something else out. That gave me a rough idle until I fixed it. Also could be O2 sensor(s). Mine got fried in the initial stage of firing up the engine for the first time.

Also, I'm running at 197-206F (depending on what kind of driving) on a hot day with an 180F thermostat. Is that what you're seeing?

197 to 206 sounds high for a 180 thermostat. I've just switched to a geniune LR 180-deg thermostat. I am getting 185 (highway driving) to 197 degrees (idle with full aircon) on a 50/50 coolant mix.
 
  #30  
Old 07-18-2013, 04:57 PM
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I'm guessing my problem lies in my OEM radiator which ran DexCool for 8 years with the previous owner. My temps during the road trip were a steady 194-201 and whereas this is a tad high, it is still acceptable. I have a new radiator in the garage which I will install at some point.
 


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