Some of you may have read my introduction, some not.
Anyway, I've owned a couple Disco I's and older Rangie's so I'm used to the quirks of these trucks.

I just picked up an 04 Disco II HSE yesterday evening after giving it what I thought was a good inspection. I drove it home 60 miles with the A/C blowing ice cold, no issues, temp was steady. I was loving it.

Drove home from work today, it stalled at an intersection and then wouldn't start. Turns over nice and fast just wouldn't start. All looked good at a glance under the hood, nothing spraying or obviously disconnected.
Hood up and waiting for the tow truck. Over the course of 30 minutes I try it over and over making sure not to kill the battery. Finally it starts! Making a clacking noise for a few seconds like it was starved for oil but then back to perfectly normal (with no A/C on of course).
Slammed the hood shut and made it to home base in my garage, save a few bucks in towing.
Turned it off and it wouldn't start again. Same symptoms.

So I'm writing this as I drink a cold corona trying not to freak out.

I gave it a closer inspection with flashlight, didn't see anything unusual except a slight hissing noise coming from what I think is the drivers side front of the engine and upon looking closer I see a little bit of coolant in a few places, obviously fresh.

I guess I have a couple questions. At first I thought it might be a crank position sensor but now I'm thinking not. Can a DiscoII not start from either being overheated (despite temp guage) or sensing coolant pressure?

What's most likely my issue? I'm afraid it might be a head gasket but I wouldn't think that would cause an intermittent crank/no start issue.

Thank you all for you help in advance.

 

As a follow up, I managed to get my OBDII reader hook up and my Torque app connected. I had a few codes but for fuel trim and O2 sensor voltage but I chalk that up to it cranking over and not starting.
I did see some real time info in the app, my coolant temp was 215 and that was after it was sitting in the garage for a bit (BTW, it started up in my garage after about 30 minutes). Seems kinda high and I still hear the hiss after I turn the engine off.

Thanks again for any help you can provide.

 

Welcome,

The temp gauge is completely useless on these trucks. Watch temps from the torque app.

Where are you seeing a coolant leak?

As for your symptoms it sounds like the CPS.

Once it gets back running watch the temps from the app... 215 is starting to get a little high.

 

First do a visual inspection of the thermostat. If it isn't grey (LR 180F) or dark grey (britpart 180F) I'd immediately get online (ebay has em) and grab either an OEM LR 180F or the Britpart 180F thermostat. DO NOT get a white 180F as it'll most likely be made by Motorad & the quality is pathetic!

Also if your coolant is red it's a good time to swap it to the green 50/50 stuff. Swapping out the thermostat is the #1 thing I do on any LR D2 I touch. It will help lower your temps considerably.

Then once that is taken care of watch the temps with your app. If it was head gaskets the coolant jug would smell like fuel, the hoses would be rock hard, and when removing the radiator cap 48hr later if it still hisses it "could" be head gaskets. Not to mention you'd have coolant loss, and if you ran it, shut it off for say 15-30min if it runs rough on the next startup it "could" once again be head gaskets. If you have none of the above then I doubt thats your issue. With the A/C On make sure your E-Fan works. Also since you just bought it I'd swap out the CPS as maintenance item, along with an oil change, larger filter, and whatever oil you wanna use (not gonna get into an oil discussion lol).

I never buy a LR and just drive it until I totally go over it.

 

Will attempt to answer your troubleshooting questions. Again I appreciate your help.

I am/was watching temps via Torque/OBDII. When she stopped running and back at my garage when it started back up I saw temps at least 215 if not more.

Thermostat looks to be a white translucent piece.
Coolant is a pretty clean yellow/green.
Jug (after an hour of cooling) has no abnormal smell and hoses are easily pinched although are tight when engine is running and up to temp.

When cooled off for about 1/2 hour it starts right up, no issues.

**One thing from your post, I don't get the aux fan in front of the condenser coming on when I turn on the A/C, full auto or any other setting. Coolant temp at about 195. Getting cold air though.

Is the aux condensor fan supposed to come on when A/C is engaged? I know on older Jeeps I've worked on the aux fan comes on when the A/C is turned on.

Thanks again guys.

 

After some similar experiences of my own, the CPS is the first thing i'd look at, as in replace it, in attempting to solve the none start issue...

 

I'm going to replace the CPS today, remove that from the equation.
I'm curious what else besides a head gasket leak could be causing a hiss and very slow coolant leak on the drivers side front of the engine. I can't see exactly where it's coming from.
Also concerned with the aux electric fan not coming on with the A/C, any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

Can you take a picture of approximately where the leak is and post it?

 

The leak could be the waterpump, hoses near water pump, or heater o-ring at the manifold. Order a new 180F thermostat & if you either remove your grill (3 plastic screws hold in in place) or slide a skewer thru the grill and try to spin the E-Fan, if it doesn't spin it's toast and needs replacing. Either the main engine E-Fan from a Honda Odessey is the same or a Toyota Corolla. Also check the 40amp fuse for it.


Then like me and others have said go ahead and replace the CPS. You shouldn't have to worry about it after you do for a very long time, and thats one thing off the list to eliminate if the not starting continues.

 

Thanks guys. I'll get a picture up shortly and report back with the e-fan/fuse check.
An interesting side note, it started this morning and I let it run till nice and warmed up but the heater doesn't blow hot air. Possibly associated with my other issues? The hoses under the hood that go to the firewall aren't warm at all compared to the upper radiator hose.

More to come...