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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 11:09 PM
  #41  
04in719's Avatar
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Mudding
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
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Fair enough, good call :-)
Tonight I over tightened the bleed screw on the upper radiator hose T (Disco2 newbie mistake I'm sure).
Picking up a new upper hose assy tomorrow.
As far as my original issues, the CPS sensor cured the engine quitting and not starting issue.
My aux fan was working fine for a day, burned another fuse. Fan fried. I see a pattern from the previous owner.
New t-stat, new air filter, fresh oil and K&N extra capacity filter. Cleaned TPS and throttle body and did seafoam teatment (still smoking a bit).

I'm a little stuck on the PCV system refresh.
Attached you'll see how I got it, doesn't seem to match some of the "nipple" posts I've read. Is this replaceable/serviceable without taking the valve cover off?

As always, appreciate your help getting a new Disco2 guy up and running.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 11:23 AM
  #42  
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Mudding
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Answered my own question on the PCV/Oil Separator thing after digging around a bit.
Last page of this thread was my answer. Thank you RicketyTick.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t-22897/page4/
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 06:19 PM
  #43  
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Mudding
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
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A bit of a follow up on this.
My cranking with no start is resolved, it was the crank position sensor.

Aux e-fan was coming on but blowing the fuse after a few minutes, it spun but was obviously going out. Replaced with junkyard motor retrofit from a Toyota, was the exact same motor I just put it into my LR shroud. That is now working proper.

Heater working after backflushing heater core, thank guys!

Still having a leak of coolant. In my original post leak was small toward the front drivers side. After having changed to the grey Britpart t-stat, filling with fresh Peak twice after breaking the bleeder screw and replacing entire upper hose assembly I have a pretty good coolant leak at the rear of the engine coming down the transmission bell housing onto the cross-member etc under the truck. Drips about a drop a second after just a few minutes of idling from cold, not up to temp temp.
I've seemed to have made the issue worse with fresh coolant and a proper flow of coolant and pressure.

At this point I'm thinking intake gasket or head gaskets is imminent.
I'm not really asking for advice in this post just notes for someone else (unless of course you have a magic bullet for me).
I'm going to start assembling the HG kit, tools and other stuff to replace while I'm in there and dig in.

Thank you all again for you help. I may start another thread with my HG repair with pictures for fun.
 

Last edited by 04in719; Jul 2, 2017 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 10:19 PM
  #44  
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Sounds like good progress, but check the lines going to the throttle body heater (very famous weak spot for leaking). I bypass all of my Bosch throttle body heaters in TX & it's one less weak spot to worry about.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 04:49 AM
  #45  
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From: Charlotte
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X2 on checking the throttle body heater for leaks.

The rear of the engine is a very common failure point for the head gaskets because there is a water passage there between the block and the head and the gasket is maybe only an eighth of an inch wide and its narrowest point.

But it is also possible coolant is leaking from the throttle body heater and running along the top of the engine and dripping down the back. That's been known to happen. So before you go tearing off the heads, make absolutely sure whether or not you can see any evidence of cooling dripping from the throttle body heater.

Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 09:16 AM
  #46  
04in719's Avatar
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Mudding
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Thanks guys, definitely not the TB heater. I've triple checked that.
I'll be starting the HG project next weekend.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 10:29 AM
  #47  
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Last place to check would be the upper intake to block gasket. The big curved black one. You have cooling ports going thru the intake. I had an 03 that leaked from there. LR dealer did it under warranty since it only had 25k on it at the time.
 
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