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New head gaskets, water pump, hoses, etc. Still idling at 221 degrees.

Old Apr 23, 2016 | 05:26 PM
  #11  
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Ditto what best 4x4 said
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 07:49 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Wilson7287
Did you pressure test the block for a liner issue? How much pressure is in your cooling system after warming up the engine (can you remove the expansion tank cap or is there too much pressure that it will blow)?
Do not take the cap off on cooling system that is 221 deg. The reduction in pressure will cause some of the coolant to flash to steam.

You can get rent a coolant system pressure tester. Start the engine cold with no pressure indicated on the gauge. The pressure a the cooling system typically builds to approx 7 lbs at normal running temps. If the pressure builds quickly to around 15 lbs the pressure is coming from one of the cylinders through the liner or head gasket.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 08:36 AM
  #13  
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If it's just at idle, but goes down into the 190s when moving, I would suspect fans. At 221 is your A/C condenser fan running? It should be. Also, I'd replace the fan clutch, even if it seems OK. The only difference between idle and driving is the volume of air and coolant flowing.

I suppose it could be the radiator too.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 07:38 PM
  #14  
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To many people throw parts at rovers.

It's air.

You can test your fan clutch. Test it.

You can see coolant flow...means the water pump is good. It's not rocket science.

Old fiat spiders had the same setup, their procedure was to raise the front of the car...it also works with a rover.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 08:24 AM
  #15  
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Actually to many people don't throw the correct parts at their rovers IMHO.

Especially replacing old worn out/clogged radiators, or thermostats. I can't tell you how many times I've heard or seen people dump $$$$ into a head gasket job, and they didn't replace the actual cause of the issue in the first place. Be it a stuck thermostat, clogged radiator, worn fan clutch, bad efan, water pump, bad coolant hose, or even the lack of coolant. Then they start driving it like it's 100% new and BOOM it blows up again they b!tch and complain how LR's suck, and it ends up on CL with a good body, and blown motor.

LR D2/P38's are harder than some cars to bleed out the air, but it will eventually bleed the air out thru the coolant jug with several hot/cold cycles. You can tell once you get the air out if your temps level out vs spike up/down. If it levels out, but it's warmer than you'd like that's when you start checking things like the radiator, fan clutch, and efan.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; Apr 26, 2016 at 08:29 AM.
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