Let it idle here in front of work with the Autel. Got up to 218F and stopped.

Sprayed cold water thru the rad and it didn't have any effect. Also went over the thing with the infrared thermometer....even checking directly into the res, and it was all cool as a cucumber. At the temp sensor too....cool.

I'm thinking I have a bad temp sensor? It's $12....I'll have it later today. Reading the Rave I'd think there would be ECT codes in the ECM....but there are no codes whatsoever.

 

Finally....

 

Went up to 235F on the interstate.

220 at idle....hit the tstat with my infrared thermometer and it said 144. Less at the temp probe behind the alt. Verified with a second infrared thermometer.

I'm afraid to drive it now.

 

I didn't scroll back through previous posts, but based on your last post, it sounds like your temp sensor may not be reading correctly if your IR thermometer readings are that far off from your computer readings.

I assume you can toggle various readings on that (I don't have one). Tomorrow morning before you start it, check the ambient temp and your coolant temp. They should be fairly close to the same reading. If they vary drastically, I would say your CTS is in error.

 

Replaced it last week thinking the same thing.

 

Now would be the time to get the 180° OEM Grey stat.

When installing that you can rebleed... Of course using the proper procedure, engine stone cold, raising the overflow tank while opening the bleed screw.

Speaking of bleeding, if you do your own brake fluid, you'll have to engage the TC between rounds of bleeding to get full system circulation. This will get rid of your mushy pedal. The safest way to activate TC while bleeding brakes is to select low range, get up above 20mph, then engage the downhill descent control... stop, rebleed, repeat until your pedal is firm.

 

Yeah, I'm ordering the 180 right now.

The ambient temp (14F) matched to the UG on cold startup last night after work....so fairly certain it is running hot.

I noticed after the TC would cycle (snowy/icy conditions) the pedal would be better for a bit. So after doing each corner, run through the TC engaging? Or bleed all 4 then do that and repeat as necessary?

 

Bleed all 4 in the recommended sequence, activate the TC, then rebleed all four in the same sequence, repeat as necessary.

As long as you are bleeding get yourself a few quarts of fresh brake fluid to keep the reservoir topped up. The truck will benefit from the fresh fluid.

 

Ya, I figured I'd go for just changing the fluid. It appears quite dirty.

 

Waiting on the tstat to get here tomorrow, I came upon a thread mentioning little pieces of crud clogging the little holes inside the tsat. I'm thinking this is what I'm going to find. Tstat in the truck is a year or so old OEM Calorstat.

Along with the tstat I ordered a couple brass plugs for the diffs.

I stopped driving it for the time being...finally got a nice day out to put the alternator on my 535iT. Also 14mpg hwy was getting painful....