First of all, I want to say that this site has been (and continues to be) a great reference for a first time LR buyer, and it really helped me in the buying process. After looking at a few I decided to take the plunge on a silver 04 Discovery with 82k miles.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done at a local indy shop and here were the results: I used the inspection to negotiate a lower price and decided to buy because it was the best one I have seen within my price range. Since I have had it (less than a week) I have done some work...

This weekend I did an oil change (15W-40 Rotella oil & M1-301 filter) and ATF/filter change. I have also tightened the valve cover bolts and hopefully that will take care of the leak until I have the head gaskets done. I was also able to get the t-case unstuck by working it a little.

The three amigos have popped up twice since I have owned it, but they clear on restart. I have ordered the kit from Falconworks to hopefully address the issue and plan on doing that next weekend along with a brake fluid flush.

I have some pretty basic questions, but have not been able to find the answers from searching the site. I apologize in advance if I have overlooked some existing threads.

1. I know the head gaskets need to be done, but I am not 100% confident that I am capable of doing it myself. I have always done my own oil changes and brakes, have replaced alternators, radiator fan assemblies, etc. on other vehicles. How hard of a job is it? Also, if there is anyone in the bay area that is doing a head gasket and would let me observe/ help out, I would love to watch one to see if it is something I can do. I will even bring beer.

Which brings me to my next question: If I have a shop do it I will have to wait at least at least a month to save up for the repair (I have quotes that range from $1500 to $2200 from local shops). Is this ok? Am I doing any damage by driving it for a couple months?

2. I know the front prop shaft u-joints need to be done and would like to attempt this myself. I know DiscoMike has emphasized the urgency of this repair...so I am putting this on my to-do list.

Any advice on tools I should have? Is this something I can do without a jack & stands? Also, what does an indy shop generally charge for a rebuild?

3. There is a noise that I hear when I really gun it (RPM over 2300). It sounds like a leak in the exhaust, but after reading all of the threads about slipped liners and cracked blocks I am a little worried. I do not hear this at idle. I plan on getting under the truck to investigate further. Any advice? I thought about sea foam, but that would be nearly impossible to get away with in the city - people would be pissed off and the fire department would likely show up.

I guess this really turned out to be a long post - I will stop and hopefully hear back from all of you before I say anything else. Your advice is much appreciated and I look forward to contributing to the forum.

Thanks!

 

Ramps are helpful. Some just pull up on a steep curb. Jacks and stands help you be safe. May be some places around you that rent shop space with a lift. Nothing wrong with a trip to the boonies for a little Sea Foam fun. There are on line videos and plenty of posts on here about DIY HG work. Rule of thumb is two weekends under the wrench, with machine shop inbetween. Shops bill about 12-15 hours for it.

Watch coolant level daily and temp gauge like a hawk, above 50% is trouble. A liitle leak can get a lot bigger in a hurry.

Should have bought tools around holidays when every box store had sets on sale half price, may still be some out there. Will need torque wrench and 24 inch breaker bar as well.

So if you deduct the $300 for parts, and like $200 machine shop, that still leaves money for tools (forever) and other goodies.

If you can lock the CDL, you can disconnect front prop shaft and drive 2WD while waiting on repair fund to replenish.

 

Thanks for the advice Buzz. I plan on doing some studying, getting the tools and doing the head gaskets myself.

I was thinking about doing the prop shaft(s) this weekend along with the installing the falconworks kit and flushing the brakes, but would you recommend that I take care of the head gaskets first and just lock the CDL and drop the front shaft for the time being?

Also if I am doing the front prop shaft, should I just go ahead and buy another u joint and do the rear shaft while I'm at it? I have noticed that quite a few people on this site only do the front... is it just a pain in the a**?

As a side note, the falconworks kit instructions say to "fill system with ONLY Castrol GT-LMA brake fluid, no substitute is acceptable" - I have read that others use a range of brand name DOT 4 fluids. Any thoughts?

 

1. Head gaskets are a big job, but not a hard job,more time consuming than anything else. Atlantic British has a DVD “in search of?”I forget the last part. On the DVD they do head gaskets on a discovery. Buy theDVD and invest an hour watching it. You will know at the end of the DVD thatyou can or cannot do it. I sure you can, but it a good watch if you have neverdone anything like this before. Some helpful hint too.

2. Rebuilding the drive shaft with a double Carbonejoint is more than just replacing u-joints, if you haven’t done one before youmay want to just go this route, just do the install.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-CV-Front-Drive-Shaft-99-04-/251218038930?fits=Make:Land%20Rover|Modeliscover y&hash=item3a7dc31092&item=251218038930&pt=Motors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I’ve had mine in for 2-years no problemsand it took 20-30 minutes.

3. Have someone hold the engine idle up were youneed it and hold a rag over the exhaust pipe.

if it is leaking you will hear the back pressureescaping, from the leak just follow the noise .

 

Thanks guys for all the help/encouragement. I have been busy since my last post and have taken care of everything on the list.

The exhaust leak noise was a manifold gasket.

I ended buying the front prop shaft from dynamic driveline (thanks drowssap) and it looks/performs nicely. It only cost about $100 more than the parts needed to rebuild....great recommendation.

I also performed the ABS mod- option B. It was really easy and I can confirm that all functionality has been retained.

Now I just need to work my way through the major items on the DiscoMike's major service.